Mateer's

My father does not like to taste someone else’s food in a restaurant. In fact, he is quite indignant about being goaded into doing so. I do not encourage it, but there is not much of a choice for me, since I am always asking to share with others so I can get a clean review.

I suffer through, “you just have to taste this” when not eating for this job. I do relish a non-work meal all to my own. So, when I heard that Mateer’s, on Church Street in Fairhope was set up with a menu that was centers on shared or “small” plates and decided to try it, I just didn’t ask my father to join us.

After taking a leisurely drive over with another couple, we arrived right at dusk. Mateer’s is a bungalow nestled onto a large lot, beckoning you in with a warm glow and jovial mood. A hostess was right at the door to greet us, and led us over to our table in the front room, likely the former front porch, now filled with windows facing the street. Comfort and privacy came to mind, even though Mateer’s is a large place. Essentially, there are three dining/drinking rooms that all open into each other with a piano player in between. There is a room off of the porch that is larger with comfortable seating. There is even an area where a larger group can sit on pillows. The bar was large and filled, but not noisy.

I had grimaced upon seeing the piano man with a microphone pulled right up to his mouth. But there was no reason to worry. If he spoke, I never heard him and the music was subtle and pleasant, on the upbeat side.

The menu is ambitious, divided among sushi, “small” plates, nine-inch pizzas, small bowls and entrees. I had been working in the yard all day and could hardly contain my hunger. The other three were very hungry also. We quickly ordered three small plates when our waitress came to take our drink order.

Upon first glance, the menu does appear to be all over the place and we were hesitant to order the sushi, but had heard it was good, so we first chose the Tuna Roll ($9). Yellow fin tuna was rolled in nori and rice and served with soy ginger sauce, pickled ginger and wasabi. I hate to start out on a low note, because our overall experience was stellar, but the tuna wasn’t up to snuff. It was a shame, for the pieces of tuna were large; the roll was not puffed up with rice as filler.

We focused on the two others - Sesame Beef Kabobs ($9) and the special small plate choice of the night - Fried Green Tomatoes ($6). Big strips of marinated beef sirloin were crucified on long bamboo skewers, charbroiled and served with two sauces—the soy ginger and a peanut. The beef was tender and the peanut sauce piquant. The tomatoes were fried in cornmeal and served with a saucy remoulade. All of our choices during the night had plenty for everyone at the table to taste and have seconds.

The wait staff was friendly and knowledgeable, knowing just when to interrupt. Time passed quickly, and we still had not examined the menu. Our next round selections again came from the small plates section. We discussed also ordering two entrees and tasting from them. While we made the choices, a bottle of Z-52 Old Vineyard Zinfandel ($31) was brought to the table. Bold and peppery, oft described as a “rustic” wine, it is for casual drinking.

At once came three more plates. A large basket overflowed with Fried Calamari ($9), containing one half-pound of fresh, lightly fried and tender squid served with a warm marinara sauce. The calamari tasted wonderful on its own, and no one dragged it through the sauce.

All along, I had been glancing at the Smoked Duck Quesadilla ($9) on the menu. Three enormous flour tortillas were layered and stuffed with smoked duck breast, mushrooms, scallions, bell pepper and Monterey jack cheese, topped with pico de gallo and sour cream. That is description enough, they were marvelous, my favorite item of the evening. They were really six quesadillas when broken apart.

Last came the Pork and Vegetable Spring Rolls ($9). No pinkie finger-sized rolls, these were crunchy and steaming hot, and you could tell they had been filled in the kitchen with pork and fresh vegetables, delicately fried and served with a ginger mustard dipping sauce. The sauce was light, with a heavy ginger kick and was more like a broth. I could have eaten it like soup.

Our eyes had gotten bigger than our stomachs in between ordering and receiving these last three appetisers. Entrees and salads were ordered, albeit to split, but we got in over our heads. The ladies just wanted salads and to taste from of our entrees. One ordered the Caesar salad ($6) romaine lettuce, tomatoes, feta, croutons and anchovies were tossed in homemade Caesar dressing. It got lost in the mass of food on the table, and I forgot to even ask how it was.

My wife ordered the Mateer’s House Salad ($6) mesculin greens, roasted beets, pecans, red onions and crumbled blue cheese were accompanied by a raspberry-walnut vinaigrette dressing. The salads, like just about everything else, were plentiful. I did taste my wife’s, and once I removed the beets, was a nice salad.

The Filet Mignon ($30) is an 8-ounce Black Angus tenderloin filet slathered with sautéed wild mushrooms in a Maderia demi-sauce and served with garlic-mashed potatoes. The filet was wonderful, but smaller than I was expecting. The mashed potatoes were nothing to speak of. My friend’s Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb ($25), was gargantuan. It had been roasted, topped with a Southern Comfort demi-sauce with rosemary and mint, served with garlic-mashed potatoes as well. We should have just ordered his—our waitress said we almost set a record for the amount of food ordered.

All that food and wine, in addition to two martinis and two wines by the glass, and our bill was only $200. You cannot beat that for relaxing atmosphere and good food.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

Archives