For several years I have been lucky enough to judge the Mama Mia Italian Cook-Off in Daphne, held to benefit the Daphne Education Foundation, SEEDS. The food is awesome, the wine is great and the price is even better.

Typically held the second weekend in November, it is a blast, and only $25 if you buy your ticket in advance. This year we had a hard time deciding a winner, as all of the dishes were top quality. A few stood out among the rest however.

Twenty teams competed for bragging rights in different categories. Here are the first place winners. In the non-profit division, “carne” first place – Spanish Fort Prebyterian Church, (Depression Spaghetti);”pollo” – Daphne High School faculty (Chicken and artichokes with garlic sauce); “sensa carne” first place – Feo family (Pasticcio); “frutti de Mare” first place – Christ Presbyterian Church (Shrimp Carbona over Angel-hair Pasta).

In the corporate division, “carne” first place – Mary Ann’s Deli (Italian wedding soup) and “sensa carne” first place – the Trione family for McAleer’s Office Furniture (Eggplant parmesan).

I will make sure to give readers plenty of advance notice next year so you can attend this incredible event.

Besch impresses

I ate my way through town last week. Three nights before Mama Mia, I was invited to attend the Junior League of Mobile Christmas Jubilee Preview Party, featuring well-known and respected Chef John Besch from New Orleans. The Jubilee had a great deal of food specialty items for sale, among them soup and dip mixes and some fantastic olive oils.

Besch, who owns Restaurant August, Besch Steak House and Luke in New Orleans, along with La Provence in Mandeville, could not have been more pleasant. His core team was in town to prepare and serve the food for the evening. We talked about his success in serving seasonal produce raised in Louisiana and his experience raising chickens, hogs and goats and using the benefits for La Provence.

His was recently recognized by Gourmet magazine as one of the top farm-to-table restaurants in the country. Besch also is credited with fostering and supporting his employees after Katrina. John was able to re-open and expand his businesses through the commitment of his employees. He offered any who returned back pay for any time they missed, and even housed those who had nowhere to go.

Besch served food at the party that evoked the personality of his restaurants. There were pates, a nice chicken-and-sausage gumbo, paella that disappeared every time a tremendous pan came back out, pork loin with lump crabmeat corn risotto and a bevy of petit fours and bread pudding.

John recently came in second to be the next “Iron Chef” on the Food Network. I forgot to ask him how he kept from laughing every time “the Chairman” came out to speak. I would have gotten kicked off the first day! I think they chose the other dude because he looked hip. And who are those three bozos who are the regular judges? I need to look up and see who the goose is with the bobbed hair.

Flay dismays

Bobby Flay was among the final judges who chose the next “Iron Chef.” It seems like I did not miss much by not being able to interview him when he was in town recently. I have on good authority that he was rude and talked down to the kitchen staff who helped him prepare and he then did not show up for a dinner in his honor. Word is that it was not in his contract and he had only one night to rest. Well, he should have said no in the beginning before he asked for some specific wines to be served that evening.

Cooper T’s closes

Sad news – Cooper T’s closed. They tried the airplane thing first, and I thought it was a bit much like most people did. But the food was good, and if you lived out in WeMo it kept you from having to drive to Felix’s. The old Constantine’s specialties at Cooper T’s were my favorites, like chicken Parmesan. They removed the plane and revamped both the menu and décor. It still did not work, despite from what I heard were mostly favorable reviews.

In my opinion, too many people think TGI Fridays and Applebee’s are the best things in town and have no clue about good food. It’s a shame Cooper T’s is gone.

Oysterella’s changes

Speaking of changes, word is that many are happening at Oysterella’s. Whispers of high prices, high noise level and poor service have the owners making changes. They tell me prices are coming down, noise reduction devices are being put into place and meetings are held continuously to see how business can improve.

Managing Editor Rob Holbert has eaten there several times and raves about the food, so they apparently have some quality items. I want to see them do well and hope to see more cars in the lot next time I’m on the Causeway.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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