By Kinnon Phillips
Cuisine Editor

Corte Inge and Eddie Cornell have amicably parted ways on their plans for the former Gus’s location. In fact, Corte hopes to come together with Eddie in the future on another location that Eddie owns.

But, it seems that the scope of the project was a bit larger than Corte wanted to take on once it all started. Instead, he wants to make a smaller start and do some catering.

“It has been a long time dream of mine to open up a New York-style pizza place, to be able to spend time and effort on excellent crust,” Inge said. He is currently looking for available space in Midtown, west of Broad Street, and hopes to bring excellent pizza and a hip atmosphere to area residents.

There are few places to pick up a pizza east of the Interstate with the exception of La Pizzeria and Picklefish, but Mellow Mushroom is on its way. Predicted to be packed 24/7, will the Mushroom take hold of the hip along with the croakies and khaki set?

If the concept and product are right, Inge can thrive. And by allowing him also a space to cater out of, he can get his feet on the ground to see where, and when, he wants to add other ventures.

Eddie Cornell has a wonderful space in the former Gus’s building, and has added some massive stone fireplaces out on the back patio along with other improvements. It is a large undertaking and does seem to call for someone with a great deal of experience in large ventures coming to the table. I spoke with him briefly and he echoed that the parting with Inge was amicable, but did not elaborate on what he plans to do now with the space.

Bienville Club delivers

To be fair, we did have the Lagniappe Christmas party at the Bienville Club as their guests. But I did not have to write about it. I only do because they knocked our socks off with the food.

The club is still in nice shape and upon entering we were greeted with waiters passing tempura-fried asparagus with dipping sauce, chicken “lollipops” (tiny drumsticks in a fruity glaze) and shrimp quiches. In addition to passing along many other items, there was a buffet table with a tender pork roast with cornbread stuffing and cranberry marmalade and a great salmon dip.

If you are thinking about a special event I would consider them – get them to give you a tasting of such things as fried artichoke hearts in goat cheese sauce, oysters Bienville, tempura shrimp with wasabi sauce and skewered beef tenderloin.

True(ly) great

I decided to forgo any top 10 things about Mobile restaurants listing to close out the year. I do think I can name the best new restaurant to open in 2007. In the closing days, a group of us had a fantastic experience at True.

I want to eat there a few more times before reviewing, but the atmosphere alone is something we have needed to see here. The presentation and food are both sophisticated – please not only welcome True to town, but eat there many times. You know how we can pack a place out when they first open, then abandon them for Ruby Tuesday’s a week later…

New Year’s recipes

I thought that these two classic New Orleans recipes fit well with my column, I hope you enjoy them. The Godchaux salad is really a meal.

Godchaux Salad

1 head iceberg lettuce, cubed

2 large tomatoes, cubed

1 lb lump crabmeat

30-35 large shrimp, boiled and peeled

In a small bowl, combine:

5 oz. salad oil

5 oz. red wine vinegar

4 oz. Creole mustard

Mix dressing well, pour over salad and toss. Divide salad into four chilled plates and garnish each with hard boiled egg and 2 anchovies.

Oysters Rockefeller

This is said to be as close as possible to the original, created at Antoine’s in New Orleans

Two dozen fresh oysters on the half shell, oyster liquor reserved

4 springs flat-leaf Italian parsley

4 green onions (including the green part)

A handful of fresh celery leaves

At least 6 fresh tarragon leaves

At least 6 fresh chervil leaves

1/2 cup dried fresh French bread crumbs (homemade)

12 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Tabasco or Crystal hot sauce, to taste

2 tablespoons Herbsaint or Pernod (optional)

Rock salt or kosher salt

Mince together the parsley, green onions, celery leaves, tarragon and chervil as finely as you possibly can. Mix this together with the bread crumbs and the softened butter into a mortar and mix the whole thing together into a smooth paste, but do leave a little texture to it. (You can do this in a blender or food processor, but you’ll leave a lot of it behind, stuck to the inside, and it’ll be just easier to do it by hand in a mortar) Season to taste with salt and pepper, Tabasco or Crystal and, if you like, the Herbsaint.

Preheat broiler. Lower the top rack to the middle of the oven. Spread the rock salt (preferable) or kosher salt over a large baking sheet; this will keep the oysters level under the broiler, so that they won’t tip over. Moisten the salt very slightly. Plant the shells in the salt, making sure they’re level. Place one oyster in each shell, plus a little bit of oyster liquor. Spoon an equal amount of the prepared herb/butter mixture over each oyster.

Place the baking sheet on the middle rack and broil until the edges of the oysters have curled and the herb butter is bubbling, about five minutes. Watch carefully to make sure you don’t overdo it. Serve immediately.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.



Archives

Word of Mouth

Aug 26 2008 Openings abound all around There are quite a few upcoming and current restaurant openings in the area.

Aug 12 2008 The ‘Fish fades away By now I am sure most of you have heard that Picklefish downtown on Dauphin Street has closed after 12 years of good pizza.

Jul 29 2008 John Word’s gets jazzy John Word’s restaurant on the causeway near the Battleship Alabama has undergone an extreme makeover.

Jul 15 2008 Now for the Kin-Nappies As I sat down to fill out my ballot, I realized what an incredible year we have had in the restaurant scene in Mobile.

Jul 01 2008 This Labor Day weekend, the Grand Hotel is offering a culinary weekend.

Jun 17 2008 Two pizza places are now open in MiMo. The Mellow Mushroom and Ashland Midtown Pub recently opened on the same weekend.

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August 26, 2008
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