Doughboy Pizza

As I was visiting with a crazy, energetic new friend from New York City, I asked her what she missed. She does not miss the crowds, the weather, the prices or the hassle.

But what about the restaurants? That, she misses. But, she said, “I have found the most incredible pizza place, they serve authentic New York pizza. So good it would have business in Manhattan.” Where is this place—way, way out in WeMo next to Target on Schillinger Road.

I’m beginning to get concerned. The number of hip and great places to eat is expanding in WeMo. I hope I don’t have to move out there.

MiMo needs to shape up and attract some more new places to eat. There is only so much bar food that you can take.

Tucked into a strip center in the Super Target parking lot is the best pizza in our area. I like others in town, but this beats all by a landslide.

Doughboy is the name, and the owner (Robert) hails from New Jersey where he worked in pizza joints as a young man. He eventually became an engineer, but constant travelling wore thin. Robert chose to open up a pizza and pasta place here in Mobile serving pies like those he made and ate at home.

Their menu is extensive, with heroes, seafood and pastas aplenty. A friend ordered a Ham and Provolone Cheese Po-Boy ($5.50) on a fresh baked 8-inch long roll with lettuce, tomato, onion, oil and vinegar, mayo and spicy mustard. The bread was large and chewy and piled high with ham.

The other heroes are your standard fare, but Doughboy does sell a Sabbett Hot Dog—much revered by Easterners. In the seafood category you can order items such as Mussels (20-24 for $8.50), served hot or sweet, and Fried Calamari ($8.75).

All of the pastas come in extra large bowls. I have seen them, but not tasted them yet, as the pizza overwhelms me. If I did get pastas, the plain old spaghetti looks great—it was served once at a table next to me. Beyond the usual Italian offerings, ones I found interesting were a Lobster Ravioli (lobster meat in a creamy red sauce $11.95), Ziti with Broccoli and Garlic ($7.25), Chicken Parmigiana ($11.75) or how about Eggplant Rollatini (rolled and stuffed with ricotta and mozzarella, topped with marinara and baked, $9.25).

I have to save the remainder of this space for the pizzas. First of all, Robert uses a pizza oven that is like a Ferris wheel on the inside. The pizzas rotate around, which creates an even, crispy crust.

Next, he crushes his own tomatoes to make his sauce in addition to making his own pesto.

There are two crusts, a thin and a Sicilian. The thin is not like a cracker, nor doughy, but firm and even. The ends are puffy, but crisp (this adjective is being used often in this review—check the thesaurus yourself, there are few choices). I wrapped pepperoni slices around the edges left by my son. The pepperonis are real, not precut, as large as a lady’s palm and zesty. The Sicilian is just like the best, crispiest foccacia bread you have ever tasted, toasty and firm.

All ingredients are authentic and fresh. The Italian sausage is real, the eggplant cut that day, peppers and onions, etc.. Inventive toppings include calamari, bacon, Genoa salami, Conecuh sausage, feta and sun-dried and fresh tomatoes. You can order Pizza by the Slice ($1.75 for thin, $1.85 for Sicilian, toppings .75 a piece) and this is enough for lunch. Whole Pizzas are either 10-inch or 16-inch (beginning at around $9 for a small one topping and $12 for a large one topping).

There are many specialty pizzas on the menu. I am a regular topping man myself. I have often read the true test of great pizza is pepperoni, and Doughboy more than passed. Some of the specialties are Joe Cain (Conecuh sausage, pepperoni, salami and sliced meatballs, $15.25); the Mobile Bay (choice of clams, mussels, shrimp or oysters, $12.50) and the ubiquitous White Pizza (mozzarella, ricotta, olive oil and spinach with no red sauce, large $12.50).

On my first visit, I stopped in on my way from the airport and tried a pepperoni and Italian sausage slice. It was so large it almost fell off the plate, with zesty pepperoni and mild sausage. I was hooked.

The next time I came with a group. One in the party ordered a Sicilian slice with the pepperoni and mushroom. The amount of tomato sauce doesn’t overwhelm the slices or the toppings and Doughboy doesn’t skimp on the quantity of your choices either.

I tried the Pesto Pizza ($13.00) thin, topped with mozzarella and their homemade pesto, and I added chicken and eggplant. The only word I can think of is divine. The pesto was flavorful, the eggplant fresh and the chicken moist. The others at the table snatched pieces up before I was even full!

Last visit, my wife got a funky slice of sun-drieds, feta, pepperochinis and it was gourmet to the tee. I ordered yet another pepperoni and sausage thin slice along with a pepperoni, mushroom, green pepper and onion. My son chose a weird-but-tasty combination of pepperoni and bacon.

Doughboy will deliver all the way downtown, but Robert cautions the pizza will not be piping hot, and they do not like to deliver during rush hour. One of our editors did just that on the night after our lunch and said it was just fine.

But I suggest the drive. Here is yet another place that, on my next visit, will be packed out. One day, I’ll retire from this job and keep all the good spots to myself.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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