Commander's Palace

In a town full of excellent restaurants, it is often hard to decide just where to go. Sometimes I tend to venture into familiar places rather than to try something new, or fashionable. This is especially true when I have little time. My children are now 8, and we have not taken them to New Orleans since they were 4 and went to the zoo.

But on a recent visit we wanted to take them somewhere for a fine dining experience to practice manners and expose them to a grown-up setting and meal. In other words, no chicken fingers allowed. (Sorry Chicken Finger Girl!)

Commander’s Palace occupies a grand, historical home in Uptown New Orleans with a shocking blue paint that pops through the massive oak trees lining the street. Each of Commander’s dining rooms has its own personality, too. My favorite ones are both upstairs—either the expansive rear “garden” room or the first room at the top of the stairs.

We were seated in the room at the top of the stairway. Painted a bright coral pink, and mirrored on one wall and with a large window, this room could uplift even the dour mood of “Saturday Night Live’s” Debbie Downer. Colorful balloons rise above each table during brunch. Three other smaller dining rooms also open into this room, and they provide plenty of quality people watching.

The staff is friendly and the service focused. The attention is quiet, and observing, and they do not intrude or engage you in conversation beyond your meal, unless addressed. We had three staff members for our table, along with several others who joined together to bring our food to the table. My children’s Shirley Temples were filled as quickly as they were drained, and upon sitting down, hot slices of garlic toast soaked with butter and herbs with a crusty bottom quickly materialized.

Our reservation was for 12:30 and the brunch menu was still available. This menu is a combination of egg dishes along with fish, chicken and beef. Three courses are served for entrée selections—an appetizer, entrée and dessert.

For my appetizer, I ordered turtle soup - a deep brown roux with peppers, onions and a great deal of dark meat poured from a stainless cup into your bowl. I love turtle soup, and Commander’s is superior - my son tried it for the first time and kept asking me for more spoonfuls. My wife ordered the Egg Sardou. One poached egg rests on creamed spinach and a fresh artichoke bottom all topped with hollandaise sauce. The egg was cooked to a perfect medium and the spinach was light and creamy.

For entrees, I chose the USDA Prime Petit Filet Mignon (32.00). A luncheon-size filet was Creole spiced and grilled medium rare. My filet was medium rare the whole way through and if the depth had been smaller, could have been cut with a fork. It was served over truffle buttermilk mashed potatoes with a saucy, savory gathering of caramelized onions, smoked mushrooms and tasso marchands de vin.

My wife selected Pecan Crusted Gulf Fish (31.00). The fresh white fish of the day (which we forgot to ask what it was) was crowned with Champagne poached jumbo lump crabmeat with crushed corn cream and roasted pecans. It was excellent.

The Brennan’s family of restaurants features items specially geared to children. My daughter ordered the scrambled eggs, bacon and chive biscuit. The scrambled eggs had a silky texture and I am sure were made with heavy cream. The bacon was curled and had a balance of smoky and sweet flavors. I was too full to taste the chive biscuit, but she finished it off.

My son chose fried shrimp with matchstick fried potatoes. The shrimp were huge, sweet and plump and the potatoes were stacked high in the middle of the plate. By the end of the meal, we were wishing they had a nap room. But dessert still had to be eaten.

The festive air at Commander’s is enhanced by a trio of strolling musicians playing the clarinet, oboe and electric guitar. They ramble from room to room playing and singing jazz favorites and taking requests. They play about three pieces in each room before moving on. During our two-and-a-half-hour lunch we were entertained twice.

We were near the end. My daughter and I both selected the Creole Bread Pudding Soufflé—rich bread pudding whipped into a light fluffy soufflé and a whiskey sauce that is added at your table. The waiter pops the top with a spoon and ladles the sauce into the middle of the dessert. It is the signature dessert.

The special dessert of the day was Strawberry Shortcake made with fresh Louisiana strawberries atop a buttermilk biscuit and a thick strawberry sauce as decadent as the soufflé. My son had raspberry sorbet stuffed into a waffle-like cookie. I had to drink three cups of chicory coffee to allow me to stay awake for the drive home.

Commander’s is a perfect place to go to celebrate on special occasions or when just visiting The Big Easy—the lunch is long and leisurely. I have never been for dinner, but understand it can be just as stellar as brunch/lunch.

Save your money and take time to eat there during the middle of the day. But I do suggest an overnight stay so you can nap in your hotel room, waking up at 5 p.m. or so to get ready for a hedonistic evening.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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