By Kinnon Phillips
Cuisine Editor

Not much news in the restaurant business as most owners are concerned that with Mardi Gras on the heels of Christmas, and no real “extra” days for Senior and Super Bowl crowds, they will not have done as well as in years past.

After Mardi Gras, downtown businesses only have the Chili Cook-Off as a last chance to make some real money before the city shuts down until after summer. Sounds like these downtown businesses should get together with the Downtown Mobile Alliance and plan some events that will bring down the drinkers in Springtime.

*Talking Bull *

Look for the Bull, a Wendell Quimby venture that will be located next to Café 615, to open in March serving southwestern food at dinner. It will also have an extensive tequila bar.

Lenten eats

On to ashes and sack cloth. Most people give up sweets, alcohol or cussing for Lent. Most Catholics resolve not to eat meat on Fridays. Typically I like to present some recipes this time of year with fish and shellfish and here are mine for this year.

Baked Flounder with Tomato Caper Sauce

Gourmet October 2001

Serves Four

For sauce

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 cup finely chopped fennel bulb (sometimes called anise)

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced

1 (14 1/2-oz) can diced tomatoes including juice

1/4 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

For flounder

1/2 cup fine dry bread crumbs

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, well softened

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

4 (6-oz) pieces skinless flounder or sole fillet

2 tablespoons dry white wine

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Make sauce:

Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then sauté onion and fennel, stirring, until golden, about 8 minutes.

Add garlic and sauté, stirring, 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and wine and simmer briskly until liquid is reduced by one third, about 5 minutes. Stir in capers, salt, and pepper, then transfer to a 2-quart gratin dish or other wide shallow baking dish.

Prepare flounder:

Stir together bread crumbs, butter, salt, and pepper with a fork until combined.

Season flounder with salt and pepper, then roll each fillet, skinned side up, into a cylinder and arrange, seam side down, on top of sauce. Gently press bread crumbs onto flounder.

Drizzle wine carefully around fish into sauce (not over fish) and bake in middle of oven until fish is just cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes.

While I do not eat it, many of my family members and friends love to heat up a quick batch of oyster soup during cold weather. This is a combination of the best elements of some of their recipes.

Oyster Stew

Various People

1/2 cup butter

1 cup minced celery

3 tablespoons minced shallots

1 quart half-and-half cream

2 (12 ounce) containers fresh

shucked oysters, undrained

salt and ground black pepper to

taste

1 pinch cayenne pepper, or to

Taste

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat, and cook the celery and shallots until shallots are tender. Pour half-and-half into a large pot over medium-high heat. Mix in the butter, celery, and shallot mixture. Stir continuously. When the mixture is almost boiling, pour the oysters and their liquid into the pot.

Season with salt, pepper and cayenne pepper. Stir continuously until the oysters curl at the ends. When the oysters curl the stew is finished cooking; turn off the heat and serve.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.



Archives

Word of Mouth

Jul 01 2008 This Labor Day weekend, the Grand Hotel is offering a culinary weekend.

Jun 17 2008 Two pizza places are now open in MiMo. The Mellow Mushroom and Ashland Midtown Pub recently opened on the same weekend.

Jun 03 2008 While I am not over the Bay a great deal, recently I have had the opportunity to purchase some food from Greer’s Old Bay Market in Fairhope.

May 19 2008 I made French Toast this weekend, and have never really done so before.

May 06 2008 Moka’s Coffee will soon be opening their drive-through hut on Dauphin Street west of Sage Avenue down the parking lot from Krystal.

Apr 22 2008 You can see the sign out front of the Ashland Pub, Corte Inge’s new venture in the former Memories location and they anticipate opening for business by June.

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July 01, 2008
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