Best Gumbo

People in this community are tethered to THEIR gumbo. Initially the idea for this column was to create a sampling of good local restaurant gumbos. I surveyed just about everyone I know and did not know - friends, co-workers, chefs, Lagniappe staff, strangers in elevators, old and young people. You get the point. Everyone to the letter had the same first comment when I asked who had the best gumbo - “No one. The best gumbo is (my mother’s, my grandmother’s, my next door neighbor’s).” It seems that with the 35 or so random and not so random people I spoke with, no restaurant gumbo is found to reign or even be that good. Gumbos mentioned as being of high quality after further probing were:

The Dew Drop Inn (“nice, thick brown roux, most similar to homemade”)

Old Bay Steamer (“Tangy medium roux. Unique flavor.”)

Big Time Diner (“Old fashioned, tomato heavy Constantine’s recipe”)

The Bakery Café (“chock full of flavor, heavy doses of shellfish and vegetables”)

Felix’s Fish Camp (“good roux base, flavorful, close to homemade”)

Otherwise, my respondents complained about a lack of quality roux and low meat content found in restaurant gumbo. Each then extolled the virtues of homemade gumbo. Gumbos are compared, as each is different and most cooks keep their recipe a guarded secret. Gumbo is an integral part of Gulf Coast culture and as such may be why people prefer to make their eating choices based on tradition rather than something commercially prepared. The effort and mystique behind old or even new family recipes for the dish is what prejudices locals.

Gumbo evolved from a combination of French, Spanish, African and Native influences to its base requirements today. There are few things better than homemade, and when it comes to seafood most of our restaurants are more well known for their frying capability. So, with that mind, how can you make a good gumbo?

I chose to consult my old cookbooks to find a recipe that could be relied upon and represent a standard gumbo. Nancy S. Dukes was a well-known and respected cook in Mobile. For many years she kept a hand-typed book of recipes she distributed to friends. In the early ‘70s she was persuaded to publish “A Good Cook’s Book.” The recipes are from another time, filled with salad molds, green bean casserole and some simple but delicious staples such as spaghetti sauce that feeds a multitude, corned beef and creative seafood dishes. Her recipe for gumbo is indicative of what is found in our region. The notes following her recipe are hers and I included them because they were just what I wanted to say about making gumbo. While the ketchup inclusion does hark from another era, it seems to add a needed touch of sweetness to the dish.

Gumbo is a time consuming and chopping experience. It is not for the light cook. First you make the roux. While I have not had any difficulty the few times I have made roux, many fail once and give up. I have found that having the ingredients close at hand and taking your time, slowing adding and stirring, success can be achieved with no burnt flour taste. There are numerous and distinct variations of gumbo. Essentially, once you have the roux, anything around the kitchen can be added. Whether your favorite gumbo includes duck, chicken, sausage or the purist requirement of shellfish, the creation ends up as a hearty, filling and complete meal. But most purists require some form of shellfish and definitely okra.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

Archives