Cuisine Review

Over the last few years I have been fairly good about not rushing out to a restaurant in its first week of business and immediately writing a review. There are some I save and am saving until I can have at least two if not three visits before writing about them.

But I was desperate. My real job has been crazy, I was overwhelmed and was leaving town for the week when this column was due. What was I to do? Also, a group of friends get together once a week to catch up and someone, or as a group, provides something to eat. It was the “Idol” finals, and while not publicly professing to be a big fan, I got into it this year. I figured it was my turn to do something.

I volunteered to bring dinner for a group of eight for the evening. What was I thinking with all that I had going on, and what could I do?

That morning a reader had written in informing me of the good meal she had at Fletcher’s BBQ on Cottage Hill Road just east of the Beltline. The Beltline, what an engineering marvel that is – makes no sense to me. Now, the Fletcher’s people ought to have their act together since their food is not new, just a reopening of sorts. I called to get a take out order, but alas neither their fax, nor e-mail was yet up and going. Fortunately I had to run an errand for a client about a block away from the restaurant.

Fletcher’s has a long history in Mobile, and one I wish I knew a lot more about. Safe to say that for many, many years they had a well thought of, almost revered in some circles, reputation. My family did not eat there, we were Ossie’s people. However, when they were on Government Street near Skyline Country Club, I ate many a fine breakfast after a swim practice or two. By the time I was driving and eating around more on my own I believe they were already closed.

Shortly after I moved to Mobile, bars and restaurants timidly began their approach to downtown and Fletcher’s was reborn in the location most recently occupied by Janino’s on Dauphin Street near Cathedral Square. They opened and closed before I had a chance to try it, but someone I worked with at the time knew the owners and brought me some sauce. I remember it being more sweet than spicy on whatever I used it on.

As I reported in my other column some weeks ago, the family decided to take over the reins and establish themselves in the Cottage Hill location, which years ago was Revere’s. Not the hottest spot in town I thought at the time, but the traffic count is fairly high during lunchtime.

The outside is nothing special, but they have created a homey, folksy feel inside. The walls are adorned with old local signs, Fletcher’s menus through the years and lots of old, interesting photographs of local, regional and national celebrities. It makes the meal interesting and gives one plenty to talk about. Just as I was contemplating whether to order ribs at about $20 a slab, the corner of my eye caught on old menu from probably the ‘50s advertising them for around $4 a slab!

The menu is typical, as it should be. Ribs, chicken, chopped pork and some sides. For this night and crowd, the ribs were a little bit over my budget. I popped in and placed an order (to be ready at 7 p.m.) of two pounds chopped pork, a chicken and enough baked beans, cole slaw and potato salad for everyone.

When I returned, there was a small crowd eating in, along with quite a few people getting take out orders. I imagine that already lunch has become busy and this was confirmed by one of the servers.

After waiting just a few minutes, large bags of food were brought out for me. For the chopped pork, only four rolls came with my two pounds of pork – not enough. Others are extra, and as I wondered how simple buns could cost extra, I saw some great looking French rolls placed in the bag. Their rolls are fresh French rolls from Pollman’s Bakery, which is quite a nice touch. A bit off what I expected to go with BBQ. I decided regular buns would be what my group expected, so I had one of my friends pick up a bag.

The BBQ is simple, country style. Not redneck, not soul, not spicy but plain old country in taste and preparation. Now Southerners are particular about their BBQ, and while I like a more soulful or zestier form, I am fairly accepting of all styles.

When I arrived with the bags of food I had to quickly drop them off due to an emergency phone call. After quickly taking care of the matter, I returned to find everyone digging in to the goods.

The chopped pork is shredded and soaked in sauce. I forgot extra sauce, which an old timer told me what is needed with Fletcher’s. They were right as there was not much to completely coat the meat. The taste is a bit plain and a medium tomato taste.

I liked the shredded consistency that was easy to pile onto a bun. I saved the Pollman’s rolls and made turkey sandwiches for the rest of the week.

Essentially, the old timers reminisced about their experiences at Fletcher’s and raved about the taste. Those of us first timers were pleased, but not completely overwhelmed.

The chicken was juicy and had been basted with sauce while it cooked, which lent a more flavorful taste in my opinion than the pork. We loved the sides – chunky potato salad with a hint of mustard, an acceptable cole slaw and great baked beans that were chock full of pork.

All in all, it was a good meal. For those of you who fondly remember the old days of Fletcher’s, you will be pleased. If you are a newbie I encourage you to decide on your own.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

Archives