Cuisine Review

It is not normal, or rather the choices are limited, to enjoy a meal where you are able to take in a fantastic view of Mobile Bay and the Delta. Such is the case however at D’Olive Bay Wood Fired Grill located on Highway 98 in the former Nautilus location just past the Hampton Inn. The Nautilus had become rather tired in look and food. I ate there several years ago with my grandmother and it was quite pedestrian. D’Olive Bay went in and undertook a complete renovation with good result.

The picture windows provide a stunning view during the day, at sunset and even at night that are a pleasant distraction from the impressive menu. Seating for large groups is found in the first room near the bar. A nice large bar area with a granite top framed in blue glass tile makes waiting for a table easy.

I have eaten at D’Olive (pronounced like dough-leave, for those of you who aren’t accustomed to the local dialect) several times over the last year and the food has not disappointed me or my fellow diners. The menu is large with so many choices it makes it hard to decide.

All of the appetizers contain shellfish, which is one of my few criticisms. For those who cannot eat shellfish it would be nice to see a few options. On my recent visit the table next to mine was devouring Oysters Bienville ($11) where jumbo prime oysters are topped with bacon, crawfish and Parmesan cheese. They also have a half dozen order of Oysters Rockefeller ($12) with fresh spinach, anisette, Parmesan and cream.

On my first outing, my friend very much enjoyed the Crab Claws sautéed with fresh pesto (Market Price), which also come fried. Other appetizers include a tempting Fried Green Tomatoes with Lobster dish ($14) and another friend selected the Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes (Market Price) as an entrée that, combined with a salad, was a good light meal. The crab cakes are accompanied with spicy aioli and mango salsa. Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail ($11), while old school, I understand can be impressive on occasion.

Three shellfish soups are presented, a seafood gumbo ($7 cup; $9 bowl), she crab soup ($7 cup; $9 bowl) or New England lobster bisque ($$8 cup; $11 bowl) neither of which have been tried when I have dined. While a side salad comes with each entrée, it is a plate full of mixed greens, cherry tomatoes, purple onion and cucumber.

Their dressings are a champagne vinaigrette, a tangy, salty gorgonzola vinaigrette, chunky rich blue cheese or ranch. There is also a traditional Caesar salad ($7) that can be topped with grilled shrimp, scallops of chicken. The D’Olive dinner salad ($5) is basically the side salad with the addition of artichoke hearts.

The entrees are divided into pastas, seafood, steak chicken and a pork chop. I went to dinner with two good friends, and Boozie’s paramour. My friend ordered the pork chop ($22) after being told the special was gone. The special was grilled shrimp and grits. The grits were to have had red and green peppers along with a mellow mix of jalapenos. The pork chop was enormous, tender, juicy and flavorful. All entrees but the pasta come with grilled zucchini and pan roasted new potatoes. The new potatoes are tender but needed a bit of salt. I hate zucchini but was told it was good.

There are three pastas, lobster fettucine ($24) that accompanied lobster cognac sauce; penne pomodora fresca ($15) that has a choice of grilled shrimp (for an additional $7), scallops (additional $9) or chicken (additional $3). My first time I had a tender veal scaloppini ($21) that is accompanied with an extremely light, delicate veal-based tomato sauce with peas and mushrooms, served with angel hair pasta.

Lots of choices are found for seafood. The chef is known for his cedar plank cooking with three choices in this area. The paramour selected the cedar plank grilled salmon ($22) glazed with honey, lemon and Dijon mustard served with pan roasted potatoes and a nicely grilled broccolini. He found it too sweet and the fish rather gummy, one of the few disappointments of the evening.

Boozie ordered what is highlighted as a specialty, blackened grouper ($23) served with the potatoes and broccolini, that she added a crawfish cream sauce. She found it spicy and delicious. There are some fried items, such as shrimp ($19), oysters ($18) or a combination platter ($18) and all of these platters are served with French fries and cole slaw.

I have also tried the pan roasted grouper ($23) that is over a creamy potato with crimini mushrooms and asparagus tips nestled in a spicy saffron broth. I have to mention that their wine list has something at every price point and selection. What is helpful is that all entrees have a color code of suggestions of wine pairings. The wine list has these codes found next to them. Boozie and her paramour were boozing it up and guzzled down a nice bottle of wine.

Last, but the best (although the pork chop was a tie), are the steaks. A center cut 14 ounce Angus rib eye steak ($27), a center cut 8 ounce Angus filet mignon ($30) that I have tasted and could cut with a fork and a 14 ounce bone in strip steak. My second visit my friend who always orders beef selected the bone in strip that he was very pleased with. A bone in steak tends to seal in more juices. I had it last time and it was truly the bomb. A choice of sauces exists, blue cheese, thyme demi-glace or brandy peppercorn ($4), sautéed mushrooms ($4), grilled shrimp ($7) or crabmeat ($12) but I think you should leave the steak alone. It is that good.

Last there are three desserts to try, and you should leave some room. Don’t fill up on their soft, chewy foccacia bread they serve with rich olive oil. Key lime pie is a hit, but their pecan praline cheesecake is stupendous. A thick, melded graham cracker crust encases a bottom of pecan praline mixture, rich but just enough to flavor the decadent cheesecake. The flourless chocolate cake is wonderful as well with a slight hint of raspberry.

This is a welcome addition to fine dining in the area with a sunset to boot.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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