
Now for the Kin-Nappies
As I sat down to fill out my ballot, I realized what an incredible year we have had in the restaurant scene in Mobile.
There appear to have been more openings and fewer closings than I remember. And the new entrants bring different options in food, style and scene. Who would have thought that on a Sunday there would actually be places to choose from beyond chains for lunch?
Dinner on Sunday can be a problem and we still have not embraced that one can actually eat dinner past nine o’clock during the week. And ever so slightly I am seeing a break from Mobilians packing out a restaurant when it opens, making an instant judgment and never returning. I encourage you to, of course, go early to try a place, but give new restaurants time to come into their own before writing them off.
So here’s how I would fill out the cuisine section of this year’s Nappies:
Best Locally Owned Restaurant- Don’t think that I am copping out this year, as there are several places that on their own stand out as the best. In my opinion, both NoJa, under Chakli Diggs and True, under Wesley True have the best locally owned, fine dining restaurants in town. Each has its own style – in atmosphere, in cuisine and service. NoJa is a bit more laid back and in its understatement plays well to Chakli’s cooking. Wesley True has brought a taste of big city dining to Mobile. More about him below.
Best New Restaurant Fine Dining- True. Wesley True has worked and trained under the best, and is adapting these skills using local ingredients, along with the unfamiliar, to challenge our palates. While not stuffy, but ethereal, the service and the experience is formal. He has taken quite a risk in coming here and I hope it pays off. At times it seems full of blue hairs, so if you are under 50 please get your ass in there.
Best New Restaurant Casual- The Taqueria at the Bike Shop. Incredible food – served slowly, but each plate is made to your order. The Bike Shop has great bistro tables and chairs up front by the windows and a nice courtyard out back. Bring the kids during the day on weekends.
Best Chain Restaurant- Mellow Mushroom Midtown
Best Beach Restaurant- Live Bait at the Wharf, not the one on Canal Road. They have a sushi bar, the design is incredibly sleek with a nautical theme.
Best Chef- tie: Chakli and Wesley. Both are cutting a wide swath across the rest of the field and in their own way have raised the bar. But hopefully they can challenge each other as well.
Best Atmosphere- True and Callaghan’s _ one serene and the other friendly, diverse and lively.
Most Underrated Restaurant- Osman’s. Had I eaten here in the last year, they may well have been best locally owned. You must have a reservation, and they have limited hours, but are worth the effort.
Best Outdoor Dining- Dog River Marina deck. On a nice fall or summer day, watching the boats come in is a great time to enjoy some good seafood. Ed’s is close behind.
Best Sweet Tea- I don’t drink it.
Best Service- True wins for understated service as it should be. To have your ass kissed, go to Ruth’s Chris.
Best Dessert- D’Olive Bay rocks. As I described some weeks ago, their pecan caramel cheesecake and flourless chocolate raspberry torte are sublime.
Best Wine Selection- Ruth’s Chris for the moment, but True has a well educated fine sommelier.
Best Wings- I am partial to WOW Wingery but Butch’s is still in my favor. And for some reason, I have never had bad service at Butch’s either.
Best Chicken Fingers- Lots of new entrants, but no one fights the Foo.
Best Ice Cream/Yogurt/Gelato- Old Dutch, Delish Desserts and Serda’s.
Worst Service- Picklefish
Best Lunch Spot- 219, as always, but I am enjoying the Bakery Bar as well these days.
Best Market- I consider Fresh Market to be the only full-service. Naman’s has a good take out counter, less of a market.
Best Wine Shop- I am in a tie mood, as Taste has created a sensation, but the people at Red or White in Midtown have steered me toward some good buys.
Best Gumbo- Oysterella’s on the Causeway has some amazing gumbo, folks.
Best Po-boy- Orlean’s Po-boys in the Regency Shopping Center on Airport. Some tell me they are positive the bread comes from New Orleans, although I have never asked. It is damn good. Everything here is fresh, lots of food. The spicy grilled shrimp po-boy is a favorite. I have to give a nod to Pollman’s as I have been married to their combination po-boy since third grade.
Best Sushi- Liquid, but I am told that I need to get to Banzai soon. It has been awhile for me. Liquid has tuna so pink you think you are in the Preppy Handbook, and the rolls are generous.
Best Bakery- Pollman’s has awesome cookies, pies and cakes. But come on, do we really have any other bakeries? If so, let me know.
Best Hamburger- Callaghan’s. Whether you get the burger or patty melt, the beef is fresh and you know what I think of the atmosphere. They need to have a more consistent supply of N/A however.
Best Steak- Give me the hot-as-hell plate with my steak swimming in butter and parsley at Ruth’s Chris.
Best Seafood- A lot of people do well with fried, but Café 615 and NoJa can both do well with other methods of fish.
Best Brunch- Café 615 for festive and fine, Callaghan’s for all other times.
Best Ethnic Food- Busaba’s.
Best Mexican Restaurant- La Cocina and Taqueria at Bike Shop.
Best Italian- In a slim category, at least Bivona’s is giving it a good try.
Best Pizza- La Pizzeria for their cracker crisp thin, Mellow Mushroom for the honey wheat crust and Magical Mystery Tour.
Best Coffeehouse- Serda’s downtown is creating a true example downtown. Carpe has run off another competitor.
Best Barbecue- Some have fallen down a bit, but the Brick Pit has been consistent
Best Drunk Food- I guess Waffle House.
Best Hangover Food- where do I start?
Best Annual Event- Chili Cook-Off, the original
Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.
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