Cuisine Review

It’s the truth, an exquisite and affordable lunch

Can you really get an elegant, fine lunch in this town for no more than $12 before tip? It is at True. Amazing isn’t it? Of course there are others, but this was a nice surprise for me. Yes, I know that dinners are fantastic experiences and not too long from now I will write up their evenings. At night, the candles are soft, the music low and at times the crowd can be lively yet also serene. The crowd is always mixed, but leans toward the older, senior set.

Many young people think it is too expensive at night without ever having gone there. Once they hear about the prices, they realize it is actually affordable when compared with the other fine restaurants in town. Don’t be put off thinking it is snobby either – Wesley True did not bring a New York attitude with him, and while they do not offer up substitutions, it cannot hurt to ask. The waiters you will find not only to be knowledgeable, but they have the descriptions and methods of preparation down and will explain in a simple way a menu item that you may not be familiar with.

The sommelier is full of information and always has great pairings and wine recommendations that can push you to try a wine you may not have heard of – most times trying to steer people toward French wines. I think he and the NoJa sommelier are the best in town. It seems most of us have become so enamored, with good reason, of Californian, Oregonian and South American wines, that the French wines are often neglected. Or you might just be a conservative who changed the name of French fries to freedom fries several years ago. Even though the French first made the fries, and still makes them better.

I decided to go to lunch and take my “second mother” who had not been to True yet and we needed to visit. At lunch, the room is bright and light with soft sky blue walls – each wall with a different design feature, with white tablecloths and comfortable chairs and banquette-type seating. The ceilings are high and the natural light softy brightens the already airy space. Classical music masks only slightly the hushed atmosphere that provides for quiet, confidential conversation. Lunch is served Tuesday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.

The menu has something for everyone and I ordered the fish of the day, which was speckled trout, on top of peppers and onions and tomatoes ($12). I prefer this over shrimp and grits mainly because I have hardly ever seen this combination. My favorite breakfast is fried fish and grits. The creamy grits had an ample sized fish filet, not fried, of mild taste with large crunchy blanched spears of asparagus. The vegetables made it similar to grits and grillades, without the grillades – at every bite.

My second mother was quick to order the roasted chicken with potatoes and some vegetables ($12). I looked over at her plate after I had eaten mine swiftly, and she had most of her food uneaten. When I asked if everything was OK, she replied that her dish was so fantastic that she wanted to savor each bite. My friends went two days later and sampled some other items.

True’s roasted shrimp salad with zucchini noodles ($12) has been written up in USA Today as one of America’s top ten salads. The shrimp are warm atop the cold noodles. Look also next spring for True to be featured in an article in Southern Living magazine along with an upcoming story in the Wine Spectator.

I was temped to order the mushroom ceviche rocket with a lemon vinaigrette ($10) that I saw at another table. My other friend raved about hanger steak with braised vegetables and Szechuan Pepper ($12). I had this before and found the meat to be tender and the vegetables a wonderful kick to the steak. Many people are fans of the steak at night and their beef is of the highest quality.

While it is not really something I am interested in, a table near us had ordered as an appetizer the antipasti plate with chorizo, smoked chicken, sliced beef and artisanal cheeses ($14) – which looked perfect, but at lunch I am not much of a snack guy. And the plate has changed because the above description is newer, and previously included a paté. I am an adventurous eater, but paté kind of makes me hesitant. Yes, I have tried it but cannot get past the contents.

The menu seems to change each week as the day chef tries new twists, but all contain the basic main part of the entrée. For example the chicken dish last week was slow-roasted with asparagus, goat cheese gratin, roasted red peppers and potatoes in olive pesto ($12). Another friend was raving to me about the sautéed goat cheese salad accompanied with apples, almonds and pecans, raisins, and dried cherries tossed with spring greens ($9) which she said was perfect for a ladies lunch. She remarked with wonder of how they actually sauté the cheese so it is not runny but with a slight crisp texture. The last item on the menu is New Zealand lamb loin with chickpea spaztle (dumpling-like pasta, similar but very small) with zucchini, olive, and tomato ($13). All dishes come with a selection of tea or water, included in price.

A friend of mine in college did not always have the best common sense. Once we were next to a car full of guys from another fraternity with dates headed to dinner before one of their parties. When we stopped at the light he asked them where they were going and when they replied “Quincy’s” (a now closed chain) he came back with “so, going to get a cheap steak huh.” We were mortified.

Well the quality at True you cannot compare to a low rent cheap steak chain. But they do have what could not be said to be cheap in quality, but of perfect lunchtime quantity. I mean typically you will spend at least $10 on a wrap with salad. So why not go for a meal you do not eat on the run but one that is at incredible prices.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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