Cuisine Review

I went back to something traditional. No more exotic reviews for a while, but don’t call me lazy for reviewing the Dew Drop Inn. Many said when told the Dew Drop was next “Why review them, doesn’t everyone know about the Dew Drop?” True, but upon research, I saw we have never actually reviewed them for Lagniappe. I had a group of guys going to dinner and thought it would work perfectly. Plus I had been in need of a fry fix.

If you haven’t been to the Dew Drop, then they’re really not missing you. Not that they are not nice and friendly or anything, it’s just that their business is doing quite well and has for over 82 years. There is hardly a time, unless you go after about 6:30 on an early weeknight, that you will not have to wait at least briefly for a table.

The Dew Drop is “Mobile’s Oldest Restaurant,” which, absent my lack of investigation, is very likely true. The original establishment was located on South Ann Street just south of Government (in the Oakleigh area to all you new-comers and WeMos – you know, downtown, not far from the parade route, near the original Krispy Kreme). According to the history found on the Dew Drop menu, it is said the owner was the man to introduce the hot dog to Mobile and sold them for a dime.

After opening a location on Old Shell Road near the current Old Shell Road Elementary School, the original owner sold it to two men who relocated the restaurant to its current location at Old Shell and “Infirmary Drive” in MiMo.

In 1967 it was “remodeled” and has not been touched since. This is what gives it originality and atmosphere. The orange laminate booths and scattered tables have steered the course of familiarity that so many Mobilians love. They all cry for change, but hang onto the past. That is OK here. It is timeless.

Adding to the atmosphere are the people you see – bluebloods next to maintenance men, middle-aged tennis ladies taking “muh-tha” out to dinner for her monthly oyster po-boy and hordes of Catholic elementary school basketball teams packing in after a game at CYO Hall. While there is a lot of visiting, and no privacy, it provides for plenty of whispered descriptions and people-watching. This is not the place to propose or break up with your girlfriend.

They have the coldest beer in town and use those little bumpy shaped glasses for you to pour it into. It is a happy sight to see an 80-year-old lady sipping on her beer elegantly as she bites from a hot dog dressed “all the way.” Soft drinks are served in cans, and sweet tea is in abundance. The Dew Drop is most famous for their hot dogs ($2.28). The weiners are the old school pink kind, the ones where you really don’t want to think about their contents. But here you don’t care, for the end result is wonderful.

One thing that is homemade at the Dew Drop is the chili. It is a tomato-based all-meat chili – thick and hearty. Most people order the dog “all the way,” which means the dog is topped with chili, kraut, mustard, ketchup and pickle. For me, it is the best way. Two of these and some onion rings are all I can handle, or need. “Upside down” means the hot dog sits on top of the condiments, “shaved” is without kraut and “female” says you want only the condiments, no dog.

Quickly in line behind the hot dog for me is the Dew Drop cheeseburger ($2.63) which entails a patty, melted cheese and a slathering of the homemade chili. You have not tasted another like it. The food is never fancy and nothing truly impressive in the sense of culinary feats. It is just good, and fried. Never order a salad here; it is a waste of your time when there are so many unhealthy items that are so much tastier.

People salivate over their oyster and shrimp items. Almost everything on the menu can be ordered in different forms. For example, you can have an oyster loaf (in hot dog bun $4.98) or po-boy ($7.98). A hot dog can come on a bun, or get a po-boy that has two hot dogs inside. The oysters and shrimp, hell, everything here is perfectly fried. I mean, frying is just about all they do. They buy the best chicken tenders (dinner with sides, $6.25, po-boy, $7.35) around, believe me, along with all these and all the grilled cheeses ($1.95) left on the table by my children, I am quite familiar.

Everyone has their favorite item, and for many it is the crabmeat omelet either as a sandwich ($7.35) or po-boy ($7.98). There is so much crabmeat in them sometimes that you wonder where the egg went. They also have the best BLTs in town; how they get good tomato slices in winter is a wonder to me.

What I ordered this last time was a selection from my childhood, the roast beef po-boy ($6.35). The roast beef is quality, but purchased. A large mound of beef that I top with Swiss cheese (.50 extra) is stuffed into crunchy, soft po-boy bread and served with a hot bowl of brown gravy. Along with extra pickles, this is the ultimate comfort item for me.

I could wax on forever. You must always order fries (half order, $1.55, whole $2.85) and/or onion rings (about same). Large, fresh onion slices, and large-cut potatoes are usually deep fried and crunchy. Every once in awhile however, I am presented with some rather soft ones. This is likely due to the person frying, I guess.

If you have enough room you have to taste the banana pudding or chocolate pie (warm). My only real criticism is with the plate specials. The entrées are good, but there are too many starches to choose from and not enough greens as sides. They have turnip greens, green beans and broccoli salad (not homemade), but the remainder of choices always seem to be mashed potatoes, fried okra (does not count), mac and cheese, fries or rings.

But then again, who enters here to eat vegetables and eat salads? If it’s you, then just don’t go.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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