Wine

Have you ever found yourself returning home from a long, sweaty day with a seemingly unquenchable thirst that only a Margarita will satiate? I usually find that the Margarita mix runs out much sooner than the Tequila, leaving us to search through the cupboards for something to mix with the remaining liquor. The closest thing I can find is Crystal Light Lemonade mix… and it makes a bland Margarita. Not bland enough to keep me from having a second one, but I certainly don’t enjoy it!

There are three components in a Margarita that (when mixed properly) result in a refreshing, irresistibly gulp-able elixir. The citric acid from lime juice is almost undrinkable on it’s own. Cloyingly sweet sugar only appeals to youngsters at restaurants with sugar packets and no parental supervision.

I’ll stymie the burly men drinking straight tequila to properly conclude this analogical composition. Like a restaurateur, chef, and waiter, the three parts of a Margarita are only appreciated when mixed together. Without the chef, The French Laundry is wrinkled. No waiter turns Le Cirque into Le Jerk. No restaurateur means that the only season is winter. Life is about balance, and Margaritas are no exception.

Riesling may be the greatest white wine grape in the world. The best Rieslings are made in Germany, which provides the grapes with distinct minerals in the soil, steep vineyards to catch the sun, rivers to moderate the climate, and a long, cool growing season to preserve the acidity. Germany is the only place in the world that can create the stunningly taut relationship between sugar, acidity, fully ripened flavors and mineral undertones.

Unfortunately, the typical Riesling is light years behind the typical Margarita. Anyone can buy a bottle of Jose Cuervo and Margarita mix; availability has never been an issue. The Riesling in the grocery stores and wine shops are typically from California or Washington State. It doesn’t matter who makes them, they don’t have the right ingredients.

Chateau St. Michelle and Dr. Loosen teamed up to make a Riesling called Eroica, which many feel is the best Riesling made in the country. It tastes like a Crystal Lighter version of J.J. Prum’s Rieslings, Monchhof Riesling or Fritz Haag Riesling. Dr. Loosen creates stunning Rieslings in Germany because he has the right ingredients.

The majority of wine drinkers picture wines like Covey Run as the benchmark for Riesling. Slightly sweet, a little acidity to add some zip, diffuse flavors of apple and pear, simply a beverage. It costs $8.99 and offers slightly more flavor and less sugar than White Zinfandel. Sadly, too many of us see Riesling as a stepping-stone from Blush jug wine to Chardonnay, Cabernet and Merlot.

The truth is that great Riesling should be the hammock that the stepping-stones lead to. Sure, we’ll keep drinking all of the other red and white wines, but the one wine that expands flavor boundaries, defines precision, and stretches our vinous imagination will always be Riesling.

Those of you who give Riesling a chance will be rewarded. The cost of a great Riesling is usually much less than that of any other wine. I would expect to pay $50-$100 for a great Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir, $40-$70 for a great Chardonnay or Merlot, and $80-$120 for a good Bordeaux. The following Rieslings are available for less than $40:

2004 Gunderloch Jean Baptist Riesling, Germany (good, not great, less than $25)

2004 J.J.Prum Wehlener Sonenuhr Riesling Kabinett (very good, less than $30)

2003 Monchhof Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese (great)

2003 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese (great)

To fully appreciate the quality of these wines, simply purchase any domestic Riesling at any price point and compare; you’ll be amazed!

Contact Matt Devan at wineguy@lagniappemobile.com.

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