Cuisine Review

A vast ocean exists in our area, between cheap eats and those elegantly priced. It can sometimes be difficult to find a middle ground – a nice place with good food in a price range you feel comfortable spending on an ordinary evening. Every dining out experience should not be an extravagance. Such places exist, but not nearly as many as those on either end. To find one, where the entrees are in the $16-17 range, with good food, is something to hold on to.

So, this close friend of mine kept mentioning he was eating at Brandon’s, in Daphne on Highway 98. I don’t always listen to him, and only half way did the first time – he had a great meal, etc. I paid attention recently and his meal sounded good, and he went on about it, plus he commented that it was not overly pricey.

But on the side of the road, where the big golf ball on a tee sign used to be? When faced with yet another dilemma of where to eat, this place popped into my mind. Somewhat skeptically, Lagniappe managing editor Rob and his wife Gentry went along. I was told I did not need a reservation – this was wrong, so make one.

Just a quick drive over on a Saturday night made it more appealing – there was no traffic to deal with. You have to be looking for the restaurant or you will miss it – and the new Moseley’s Market is right next door. But we arrived to a parking lot FULL of cars. Always nice to see, it means the food should be good.

Brandon’s was slammed, and initially we were told it could be up to 30 minutes before we would be seated. We actually got in the car, me upset at myself for not making a reservation, but decided to return and wait it out. Luckily for us, we were seated in less than 10 minutes – someone had eaten fast and enabled us to get a table. I had wanted to pull the “You know, I am from Lagniappe and WAS going to review you” card, but Rob held me back.

Brandon’s space was nothing real special for the owners to work with, yet they have created a warm, bright and comfortable room. It is one large open space, divided down the center with some booths, with wooden chairs and white clothed tables on either side. The walls are painted a sunflower yellow with French art nouveau posters along the walls, and a small bar at the rear of the room. The room was filled mostly with empty nesters, and the conversation was lively, a bit on the loud side, but not so much it was distracting.

The menu has ample selections with variety with four appetizers and a couple of salads to begin. The crab cakes came highly recommended, yet we neglected to order any, not remembering this until we were on the ride home. I tried the five onion soup au gratin ($4) which was alright, and truly the only ordinary thing I tasted all night. A baked goat cheese with mushroom-olive marinara, basil pesto and grilled French bread ($5) starter was a swirl of flavors that melded together nicely, yet the goat cheese was just a tad chalky tasting. For salad, the baby spinach salad with strawberries, goat cheese and peppered pecans with a honey and white balsamic vinegar dressing ($5) was what we all ordered.

It was fantastic, and quite large. Fresh spinach leaves spilled off the plate, and the dressing was a nice combination of acidic and sweet – you have to try this salad when you go. They also have a mixed green salad with bacon, vegetables, cheese and garlic croutons with a choice of several homemade dressings and a Caesar as well (both $4)

Our enthusiastic server was helpful and suggestive. The special that night was grilled mahi-mahi, yet we were already drawn into the menu of entrees that each had its own appeal. There were seven, all worth mentioning. These included scallops, blackened and topped with three sauces – a lemon beurre blanc, roasted red pepper puree and her infused olive oil, served with fried green tomatoes, mashed sweet potatoes and green beans or crab stuffed, bacon wrapped shrimp, drizzled with the lemon beurre blanc with the same sides as above, both for $18. A stuffed free range chicken breast and rosemary grilled rib eye were two others that we did not select.

I knew I wanted steak, and seized on the 9 oz. center cut filet with bordelaise sauce, served with smashed red skin potatoes and green beans ($24) and I added a portabella mushroom with blue cheese sauce ($5). The meat, along with all of our meals, was cooked exactly as ordered. Mine could not have been any more medium rare and tender. They must be getting their meat and seafood from next door, as everything was of generous cut and quality. For me, the bordelaise sauce, light and flavorful, would likely have been enough, but I seemed to eat every bit of the portabella along with soaking up every bite of steak with the rich, very strong, blue cheese sauce. You can also add crabmeat with lemon beurre blanc ($5) to the filet. The potatoes were good, but the small tender green beans were crunchy and had a nice flavor – both had been prepared simply.

The pesto grilled salmon filet ($16), had the same sides as mine. It was a large piece of fish, the pesto was only lightly on top, bringing out the delicate flavor of the fish, empowering rather than over powering it. And it could not have been cooked any better. Whoever runs the grill has some experience in this, but also did so during peak time. The pepper crusted tuna steak ($18) was seared medium rare – pink all down the center, and topped with bordelaise and grilled portabella mushroom and same vegetables. We agreed there did need to be a bit more sauce on the plate. The tuna was not dry, but the pepper crust demanded a bit more accompaniment. Dessert was vanilla bean crème brulee and we enjoyed it.

Why should you go here? First of all, if I lived in Daphne or Montrose I could definitely see eating here all the time. They focus on a couple of sauces, basically one set of sides and emphasize the grill. They do not aim to overly impress with “different” accompaniments of preparations. Brandon’s does it well, simply, for a great price.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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