Wine

Does the word “Italy” conjure up images of a grandmother in a brilliant white bistro apron standing in front of a huge cauldron of spaghetti sauce with a three-foot wooden spoon in one hand and a fiasco of thin, watery Chianti in the other? The culinary stereotype of robust red meat sauces, pizza and Lasagna are as close to true Italian Gastronomy as the viticultural equivalent of insipid Chianti is to the diverse and high quality wines currently produced from their more than 300 officially delimited wine producing zones.

Of course stereotypes are usually grounded in truth, but in this case the truth dates back to the checkered tablecloths of the 1950s and 1960s. With decades of enological advancement, vineyard maintenance and technological improvement under their cinturas, Italy deserves recognition as one of the world’s wine super powers.

We learn at an early age that Italy is shaped like a long spindly boot with a spur. It is with luck and plate tectonics (helped by the cracking of the earth’s crust by a huge meteor 65 million years ago at the start of the tertiary period) that Italy resides between the prime wine growing latitudes of 30 degrees and 50 degrees north of the equator. This, aided by ample volcanic activity in the south, close proximity to bodies of water, and a massive range of climates and soil types, allows Italy to produce almost any style of wine from any grape known to man.

If you have Champagne and Caviar dreams with the misfortune of Arbor Crest and Tater Tot wages, you’ll be happy to discover a solution in the form of Bellavista Sparkling wine from the Franciacorta wine zone in Lombardia. Made with a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco, this Champagne-like wine is a value at close to 30 dollars.

The 2005 Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino offers unbelievable flavors, intensity and purity for under 14 bucks. This is a wine that will re-define your expectations. With a climate suited for fresh, aromatic whites and red wines with ample fruit and structure, Sardegna also allows Argiolas to produce the 2004 Costera, a blend of Cannonau, Carignano and Bovale Sardo. Borrowing the best traits from each grape, this red wine explodes onto your palate, while the price tag is so low that it seems downright deceitful.

While it is no secret that Italy makes great Pinot Grigio, there lies an abundance of lesser-known wines just a cat scratch from the surface. The Pinot Grigio producing regions in North Eastern Italy include the region of Veneto, which encompasses the lesser known wine zones of Soave, Bordolino, and Valpolicella. The 2005 Allegrini Soave (made from Garganega and Chardonnay) is fermented in stainless steel to preserve a delightful freshness, ample acidity and smooth, perfumed elegance. The quaint village of Breganze is home to Maculan, a producer of red and white table wines and dessert wines. The 2005 Maculan Pino & Toi, a blend of Tocai, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio, offers up scents of white-fleshed fruits with measured intensity. If you prefer red wine, try the 2003 Maculan Brentino, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet. Bottled unfiltered and unfined, this barrique-aged ruddy red gives our domestic blends a run for their money.

The wine region of Tuscany has long been known for its Chianti, made from the Sangiovese grape. Sangiovese is also used in a number of other Tuscan wines, and goes by a number of other names. The 2003 Renieri Rosso di Montalcino is made from 100 percent Sangiovese Grosso, and spends a year in new/almost new wood to create touches of vanilla and cedar that compliment the bright cherry that Sangiovese is known for. If you prefer a red wine with an extended aging period, then try the 2001 La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montalcino. This DOCG wine is a blend of Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese) and Canaiolo, and spends 14 months in French oak and another year in bottle before being released. The resulting wine offers a silky texture, and a fragrance indicative of its years.

With only enough space to cram one last wine into this column, I choose the 2004 Falesco Pesano Merlot. In 1979, Riccardo Cotarella established the Falesco winery to take advantage of the congruence of climate, soil and technology while honoring the traditional varietals from the region of Umbria. While Falesco produces excellent Aleatico and Roscetto, his Merlot underlines the importance of seeking lesser known regions for the greatest quality to price ratio. Aged in French oak barrels, the blackberry flavors and rich texture combine with spicy oak influences to produce an astounding value.

By tasting, researching, and keeping an open mind, you can improve your wine selections while maintaining or decreasing your expenditures, and I’ll drink to that! I’ll also drink to births, deaths, weekdays, sunsets and foreign films with subtitles.

Contact Matt Devan at wineguy@lagniappemobile.com.

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