Cuisine Review

This past week I tried to do a full review of several places but came up short on information both times. I went to Chickasaw and over to South Houston Street. So, I will give you a snapshot of all.

I am always on the hunt for a new bakery. I love cookies – almost too much – and in my opinion they are the best measurement of a bakery’s skills. My wife’s birthday came up and I read about the Cake Cottage in Chickasaw in that other paper. Speaking of that, the only thing I liked about Coach Fran was how he referred to Auburn as “that school down the road.”

I read that beyond cakes and other baked goods, the Cottage served a plate lunch. When I called and asked for the types of cakes offered, the question back to me was what kind did I want? The Cottage can make ANY kind of cake.

I chose a devil’s food with a butter cream dark chocolate icing. I arranged to pick up the cake at lunchtime a few days later. Several from my office joined me to take the quick trip out to the bakery.

The Cottage is located not even two minutes off of I-65 on the West Lee Street exit. Take a right and the Cottage sign, while slightly faded, is just past the second light. It is not fancy, as these ladies are furiously working on their creations. But it is clean, with a large dining room adjacent to the glass display cases. Large enough for the Kiwanis club to meet. There were many cookies, brownies and cupcakes in the case that, like the Sirens, called out to me. I wanted a cupcake and maybe a cookie.

But first the real food had to be ordered. The main selections that day were baked chicken, fried pork chops with gravy, chicken salad or corned beef and cabbage. For $5.95 you got a choice of one of these with two sides for $5.95, with drink and peach cobbler included! You could also get a three vegetable plate with bread for $3.99.

The sides that day were niblet corn, creamed potatoes, squash and onions or fresh fruit. I selected the fried pork chops with the potatoes and fresh fruit. The pork chop was of reasonable size, actually a correct portion that was not oversized. It tasted like one made at home – not fried in a deep fryer, but in the skillet. While not crispy and crunchy, it was not soggy. The rich brown gravy was most definitely made in the kitchen and almost roux-like. The potatoes also tasted home made and the fruit was very, very fresh. Strawberries, grapes and pineapple were on my plate.

Of the other two with me, one selected the chicken salad with fruit, the other the chicken with corn and potatoes. The chicken salad was good she said, but not great. It does have sweet pickle in it, which I do not like. The chicken breast was boneless and had been marinated in Italian dressing, and was a wee bit dry, the corn canned.

My recommendation is that you should pick up desserts/cake at lunchtime but ask what they recommend or have cooked from scratch. I don’t think that I would go there just to eat lunch. It was good mind you, just not great. The desserts are a whole different story. The only thing I did not care for out of the three desserts I ate was the butter cream cupcake. The peach cobbler was rich; chock full of peaches and a buttery, soft crust.

My cake was not ready by the time we left, but she offered to bring it to me as she had a delivery downtown. I guess she felt bad because she sent us off with two white chocolate brownies that were the best damn things I have had, the consistency of chess bars with a not-overly-sweet taste.

The cake was excellent. The icing was rich and everyone raved about it, while the cake was moist due to the inclusion of pudding. Almost a week later what little remained of the cake (only because we left town for the weekend) was still just as good as the day we celebrated.

Maysville Shack

On the complete other side of town, down Houston from Virginia Street, past the beauty supply stores on the right, is the Maysville Shack. It is true to its name. You open the door and the counter is in your face. There are maybe three folding chairs to sit and wait for your order, and enough standing room for three people max. They have wings, chicken strips, fries, onion rings and I think a hot dog (maybe).

I have been twice to check it out, only to eat the wings, fries and rings. Plexiglas separates you from the two cooks working in just about as small a space as the ordering area. They have a counter, a large bowl to coat the wings, a couple of fryers and a refrigerator/freezer. Everything is made to order, so it takes a short wait.

The wings are large. I expected a fire-hot or spicy coating. It does have a kick that comes at the end of eating a wing, yet they are slightly sweet. It takes getting accustomed to. I did eat them at a party as well and the wings were much spicier than sweet, so maybe once they sit a while, the spices come through.

The onions rings are, while frozen, fried to perfection. All they have to drink is grape, strawberry or pineapple soda. If you feel adventurous take a ride with some friends for an experience in fried food.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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