Cuisine Review

When I was little, my great aunt would come out to my house and we would take the bus downtown. There were still a few places open, maybe on their last legs – but Gayfers was still thriving.

Three places I remember we traded with each time. These were the Peanut Shop, Three George’s and Kress. Kress was our lunch place. I got such a thrill sitting and eating at a true lunch counter. Either a hot dog or gilled cheese was my pick, with chips and always ice cream or a shake. And the place smelled like freshly made popcorn. There is a Nancy Griffith song that pretty much describes this smell and it takes me back there every time. Kress’ lunch counter was one of the few lunch/soda fountain counters I experienced.

Many years later, the current owners of Three Georges installed a soda fountain with lunch service. I have gone in for take out a few times, but not until recently did I sit down with my wife and her friend for lunch. The broad, wide windows and colorful jelly beans light up the store. The smell is of sugar. I could list forever all of the candy I like from there, but this is a food review.

A homey touch of Three George’s is that they always have a bowl of samples on one of the glass cases – it may be cheese straws, chocolate or on this visit, maple nut goodies. I try to be sneaky and dip into the bowl more than once. They do not seem to mind – the ladies working are always helpful, friendly and laugh a lot.

The last time I went in for take-out, I ordered a muffuletta with light olive salad (I think I have told you before I don’t like a lot of this, it drowns out the taste of the cold cuts for me). Theirs can be pressed “hot and toasty,” but I asked for it cold. I have been chastised by some for praising some other places’ muffs – that they are not anywhere near those in New Orleans. No, they are not, but Three George’s meets my needs. The bread was doughy on the inside and crispy, not crunchy (which is what I truly like) – ample. And the meats were generous and the olive salad was tangy enough. I got chips similar to Zapp’s to accompany the sandwich.

On the sit-down visit, I wanted to try an appetizer, but we were told none were available – maybe just that day? I wanted to try “three of our famous spreads,” which are pecan cheddar, blue cheese and black olive and savory boursin with fruit and toast points ($5.50). Well, maybe another time.

The menu contains a large number of sandwiches and several combos that include a sandwich, one side and drink. My first time eating here I remembered the pimento cheese ($4) as being fantastic, almost like mine. I wanted this, but also wanted the pressed Cuban ($6). I got both, thinking the ladies would share one of them.

My wife was trying to be good and selected the chicken salad ($4 for just sandwich, $6.50 for combo). This white meat chicken salad has no onion and is made with the best commercial mayonnaise in the country – Duke’s – and butter-roasted pecans. Her friend wanted roast beef and ordered the po-boy ($6 sandwich only, $8.50 for combo).

With one sandwich I got chips and the other potato salad (oink, oink) and the ladies got one of each as well. Other items on the menu include a garden wrap – basically a club with roasted red peppers and boursin spread ($5 for sandwich, $7.50 for combo); turkey Rueben ($6 for sandwich); a grilled cheese ($3 for sandwich) made with cheddar, provolone with a crunchy Parmesan crust on the outside that until now I had not read about – definitely what I am getting next time; and tuna salad. And the chicken salad, pimento cheese and tuna sandwiches can be made on sourdough, five grain, a croissant or on a bed of lettuce with sliced cucumbers and toast points.

The pimento cheese came first, and as I remembered was made with sharp cheddar cheese, a bite of black pepper and a kick of something else and with just enough mayonnaise to hold it together. The chicken salad was very generous as well with the chicken, but my wife only did not prefer it because it was on the sweet side.

My Cuban was great – hot and melted cheese all the way through on a satisfying pistolette, plenty of pickles and since I am not a fan of spicy mustard, they put regular mustard on mine. I highly recommend you try this. The only somewhat disappointing item was the roast beef – and likely again more the preference of the eater rather than one of preparation. She assumed it would be sliced roast beef. For those of you who like it all falling apart and thick with gravy (which is, actually, the true New Orleans way, like debris) it will meet your mark. My only comment was that it tasted more like pot roast than true roast beef.

A word about the fountain items – I have mentioned the shakes, but they also have a dish with peanut butter and strawberry topping over vanilla ice cream, peanuts and whipped cream; an authentic banana split; a brownie with chocolate sauce topped with your choice of ice cream; and sundaes. I had already overindulged, so I just picked up one of their rich pralines to go.

I encourage you to experience the nostalgic fun of sitting at the lunch counter, being served in a welcome atmosphere eating some standard favorites. This is just one more reason to support and visit downtown.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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