Wine

Question:

I’ve read that tannin, as well as other components, provide wine with more flavor complexity, aging and structure. I understand the complexity and aging, but how does tannin give it structure?

Answer:

I think of structure in a literal sense; as a building or a body. All of a wine’s components (tannin, acid, alcohol, fruit, etc.) are building materials that create a real, changing thing. The relationship between tannin, acid and alcohol creates a 3-D tactile sensation in my mouth (for red wines), with the tannin acting as anchor and backbone, acid stretching the palate up and out, and alcohol adding weight, length, and a medium for the complex flavors, aromas, and tactile sensations to exist. Too much tannin, and we don’t notice the muscle and flesh of the wine… often why many folks choose to lay wines down.

Aging a wine gives the tannin an opportunity to link up molecularly, creating a “softer” mouth-feel, and some of it even drops out of solution. Chemical changes always have widespread effects; other molecules are exchanged, creating secondary, or complex flavors and aromas, even changing the aroma to a bouquet.

Think of a newly built home, with cedar shakes and the smell of new paint. As the new owner of that house moves in and time goes by, the cedar turns brown, and the house trades it’s “new” feel for one of well-worn rugs, comfy leather rockers, the smell of your fathers cherry pipe tobacco in the study, and fresh bread and cinnamon wafting from the kitchen. A wine with lots of structure compares to a brand new house; it takes a while for it to become a cozy home.

It also doesn’t happen overnight, and unless you are paying close attention, tasting every six months or so and keeping notes, you’ll never even notice that it changed.

Another easy way to think of structure is with the human body. Tannin is bone, sometimes muscle, the fruit and alcohol flesh it out, and acidity keeps it in shape, or from getting fat and flabby. You don’t want a Kate Moss, and you don’t want a Rodney Dangerfield, you want a Marilyn Monroe, or a Harrison Ford. The key to everything in the world, life, wine, happiness, relationships, everything…. is balance, and structure is no exception.

Question:

I keep reading that I shouldn’t open a red burgundy hours before consuming it and should not even think about decanting it.

Therefore I never decant them nor open them hours before, but am I missing something?

Answer:

It depends on the Burgundy. It also depends on why you want to decant it. Some Burgundies will throw sediment. That is a good reason to decant. Younger burgundy will open up quicker if you decant, or you can enjoy the transformation in your glass. I’d be surprised if you don’t hear someone say that if it needs to open up, you are drinking it too young. Recent burgundy isn’t fragile. Try a quick experiment; take two identical bottles of ‘03 burgundy, decant one for an hour or two, and taste it against one that you’ve just opened. Do you like one more then the other? Let your taste be your guide.

Question:

What are the characteristics of Amarone wines? I read somewhere that Amarone wines use grapes that are hung dried vs. fresh grapes in the fermentation process…

Answer:

Valpolicella is the basic table wine, made the same way any other wine is made. It is typically the least intense, lightest weight, and least expensive. To describe Ripasso, you must first understand Amarone. Amarone is made from the same grapes used to make Valpolicella, but they are typically dried on straw mats. This creates an intense, concentrated wine. As you can imagine, Amarone is expensive i.e. $40 range.

Ripasso is Valpolicella that has been “passed” over the dregs of Amarone; giving it some characteristics of Amarone, but basically being a beefed-up Valpolicella. So… Valpolicella is typical table wine, Ripasso is “passed” over the Amarone dregs, and Amarone is made from mat-dried grapes.

The price points are typically $13 for Valpolicella, $24 for Ripasso, and $40 for Amarone. The body of the wine is directly correlated to the price.

Contact Matt Devan at wineguy@lagniappemobile.com.

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