Cuisine Review

What could be sweeter than being greeted for lunch with strawberry tea? Well, it may be a bit too sugar and honey for me, but piles of people just drink it up at Spot of Tea. It amazes me the numbers of people who would never venture downtown for an event, an evening out or even know what or where Space 301 is. But, whenever I walk by Spot of Tea during the week or on the weekends, it is full of people that I know do not frequent LoDa.

They come in droves on Sundays after church. We can hope that they might be developing a new view of downtown. These are the people we need to be marketing to “Get Down” in a campaign to see what LoDa has to offer.

Spot of Tea was one of the first to open in LoDa and is still thriving. On the north side of Dauphin, wide windows look out upon the leafy expanse of Cathedral Square across the street.

Being able to eat outside has some appeal as well. Breakfast or lunch on the weekends does allow for more leisurely enjoyment outside than quick workday dining. You also have more time to watch children play in the fountain and homeless men sorting their belongings. Breakfasts here are a bit gluttonous for me, so I tend to order the Bacon Egg and Cheese Sandwich on sourdough bread ($7.49) with hash browns or grits. After eating this I have no desire to eat lunch (I only wish that lack of desire would keep me from eating again).

Noteworthy as well is the Eggs Cathedral ($9.95), an inventive twist on the traditional eggs benedict — instead of ham, a meaty crab cake and rich seafood sauce top the eggs. Billy Curtright, my predecessor, wrote about breakfast here a number of years ago, so I won’t wax on about it, but I want to mention that you can get breakfast any time of day at Spot of Tea.

The décor is country; abundant maroon cabbage rose wallpaper and hunter green tablecloths accost the eyes as folksy waitresses greet you. At one time the owners operated a fairly successful comedy club that had its last laugh a few years ago. For overflow and private parties, this area, rather dark and crawling with unattractive houseplants, is used. All of the staff is friendly and eager, and the kitchen is so fast you wonder if the cooks have ESP that activates when you first walk in the door.

At lunch, Spot of Tea has a slew of sandwiches, several soups and salads. I eat here about three or four times a year, and for years always ordered the Perky Turkey ($7.49), true to its name — turkey with pepperoncini, kraut and melted Monterey Jack cheese. All sandwiches are served with a choice of red potato salad, chips or hash browns. A side salad or soup can replace the side for a nominal amount.

The salads are nicely done, always with a ripe, not winter bland tomato, onion and mushroom amongst strips of lettuce. The “Cajun” Tomato Bisque was for me always paired with everything I ever ordered until my last visit. Velvety rich red liquid is spiced with a touch of cayenne pepper. Others rave about the Seafood Bisque. Some even order a bowl ($4.99) and ask that a crab cake be launched in the vessel. Ask your server for the crab cake additional cost.

The other soups are Black Bean and Rice (a bit bland), Broccoli and Cheese and Loaded Potato (cup $2.50; bowl alone $4.99). The Potato Soup has apparently been voted been Mobile’s best soup for years, but while it does have a great deal of bacon and shredded cheddar, my first taste was a bit mealy.

Every day, Spot of Tea has a lunch special sandwich, side and soup ($7.50). On my first visit this was either a melted turkey or ham and cheese in pita sandwich with your choice. It was a generous serving, as are all of the meals at Spot of Tea. I chose the Manhattan Grilled Reuben ($7.99) and while not thick, it is a well-proportioned and meaty sandwich. When I am trying to eat better, I have also had the Turkey Reuben ($7.49), a great faux version. Others to try are the Blackened Monterey Chicken with Cajun seasonings, jack cheese, onions and peppers ($7.99) or the Bacon Cheddar Turkey Melt ($7.49). I did not care for the Monte Cristo ($8.49), a sandwich made with turkey, ham, Swiss, American, pepper Jack grilled and dusted with confectioner’s sugar. But many love it and are more than willing to pay that much for a sandwich.

Spot of Tea has some good salads, and even better dressing. I do not know if they make them in house or not. They have a new peppercorn Parmesan that is similar to a kicked-up Caesar, a not too sweet raspberry vinaigrette and a mild creamy ranch. Their Blackened Chicken Caesar ($7.99) or Blackened Shrimp Caesar ($8.99) are favorites of my business partner. Both are served with soup. The Chicken Salad, whether on a plate or croissant ($7.49) is pleasing.

I don’t know what to say, I do like the food a great deal, the staff is friendly, attentive and fast service. Spot of Tea is also loyal to downtown. But it can be a bit heavy on the wallet. And every time I enter, I expect Marie Osmond to sashay out singing “I’m a little bit country!” but it wouldn’t seem right without Donny’s response. Maybe he could perform in the comedy room?

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

Archives