Cuisine Review

Not that I am all that influential, but here is yet another restaurant that I write about with tremendous hesitation. Why? I would like to still be able to eat there and not have to wait forever.

Since Katrina, I have watched a wooden structure slowly take shape on the Causeway across from Felix’s Fish Camp, wondering just what was going on. I saw a sign that R & R Seafood was opening, but did not look close enough, thinking it was going to be a fresh seafood market. Next thing I knew there was a deck, tables and cars in the parking lot – more than would be buying crawfish. I pondered a bit then took the plunge.

It is hell being Catholic, or rather not lapsing from Catholicism during Lent. I get tired of fish every Friday, trying to find a place, not eating tuna fish for lunch all the time. My wife and I took my daughter with us while my son spent Friday night at a friend’s house. I was not that hungry and it was the night before the Chili Cook-Off, so I was supposed to be fasting a bit so I did not blow all the leaves off the oaks in Bienville Square later the next afternoon.

R & R is high off the ground, I would say high enough to weather the next 100-year flood. There are plenty of steps, and a handsome ramp for those less inclined to climb, or those who can’t. Oversized baskets bordered the top deck, brimming with muddy red mounds of wiggling crawfish waiting to be boiled. A large man stood stirring the bugs in a large pot on a screen porch, constantly working to keep up with the demand.

The front porch is complete with comfortable tables and chairs that afford an enjoyable view of Mobile Bay. The inside is brightly lit with wooden fixtures, simple tables and booths. Very reminiscent of places you used to find along the coast that sold fried seafood in red plastic baskets. I miss those and have long lamented that we do not have any more.

The menu is long, yet simple up on a lit board. A large counter greets you, just past a rack of crab boil, cocktail sauce and different Zatarain’s Fry mixes for sale. Young friendly ladies greet you with a smile and are fast to get you whatever you need, whether it is a refill or tartar sauce.

Many were getting crawfish to go or eat in. The eat-in crawfish are scooped onto a red plastic cafeteria tray at market price. A couple beside me looked like they knew what they were doing, so I asked them how they were. They said they have eaten crawfish all around town, and had their favorites, but now come here once a week to eat these. In their minds, these are the bomb.

Imagine anything fried or steamed that comes from the sea (I would say Gulf, but they do have snow crab) and it is here in basket or po-boy form. Fried oysters, shrimp (white, royal and popcorn), fresh fish (i.e. local), soft shell crab and chicken fingers complete the menu. I would not let my daughter even ponder the thought of chicken. The po-boys come just with the sandwich, the baskets with two side items.

For appetizers, there are several, even a shrimp and corn bisque, and there could be gumbo, but my eyes went straight to the fried dill pickles ($4.99) and looked at nothing else. My whole immediate family can throw down on some fried dill chips, even if they are slightly soggy, which is often the case. Hot, crispy and peppery seasoned pickles were announced for pick-up just after we sat down from ordering. The best damn ones we have ever had.

It was if the batter had been painted on by experts. Large dill chips sat patiently encased, waiting to burst their flavor after the crackling gave way. We even continued to eat them after our food had arrived. They are served with ranch dressing.

The baskets offered are fish, shrimp ($9.99); oyster ($10.99); crawfish ($9.99) or combo ($12.99). Kid’s baskets are either chicken or fish ($4.99) or popcorn shrimp ($5.99). All baskets come with two sides. These include hushpuppies (alone, $1.49); corn (alone, .99); coleslaw (alone, $1.49); taters (alone, .89); French fries (alone, 1.49), cheese grits or red beans and rice (both of which I forgot to write down the price for). Po-boys of shrimp, oysters, crawfish or fish range from $6.99 to $9.99 and only include the sandwich. Steamed royal reds ($12.99); white shrimp ($10.99) or snow crabs ($13.99) all come with corn and taters.

The thought of having some local, freshly fried fish was on my mind after talking to numerous people in the last few days for my Word of Mouth column. The server assured me the fish of the day was grouper – for real. I seized on the grouper basket ($7.99) with fries, cheese grits and an extra set of hushpuppies. My wife ordered the soft-shell po-boy and my daughter the popcorn shrimp. Three ample-size flounder filets crowded the basket of hot fries. It may have been all the other food I ate, but one filet was left to take home.

R & R uses the Zatarain’s and whoever fries the food must have a doctorate from “Brown” University. Masterful is the word from me, at least on that night. And the scores of people from all walks of life provided evidence that word is already getting out. The grits tasted of mellow garlic cream and almost coarsely ground. Hot, hot hushpuppies were truly how they are supposed to be – not mounds of mushy, chalky filler but droplets of batter fried to a dark crunch. I will say they could have given us a few more for $1.50. Our server told me the red beans and rice are out of this world.

Two-and-a-half soft-shells clawed out of a bit more than passable French loaf. My wife pronounced them excellent and very meaty. My daughter had about 30 or so fairly decent sized shrimp, and we took about a dozen of them home. I spied oysters and steamed items at other tables – no frowns were on any faces. I did not notice but do not think they sell beer or liquor.

Please do not all go out at once, though – just in case I am going to eat there tonight again!

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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