Cuisine Review

Over 15 years ago when I moved back to Mobile, it was not with enthusiasm. Many grow up saying they will never move back to their hometown, and I was one of those. Coming back here from a larger, vibrant city with plenty of activities and most importantly – good restaurants, made Mobile appear dead. Or at least the Mobile I remembered.

I told myself that two years would be my limit – establish some job history and get back out. Yet, Mobile was, at the time, ever so slightly changing for the better. I saw all of the glimmers and plans that have now become reality. I have always loved our downtown – wistful as a kid for a rebirth.

When we bought our first house, in Midtown, soon thereafter I was told about a tiny take-out place near Leinkauf School that was roasting chickens and potatoes and cooking pizzas in a true brick oven. La Pizzeria came from humble beginnings, and we were constantly buying everything on the menu, including an incredible Caesar salad.

We had many parties with various “gourmet” pizzas. When the attached garden store moved over the bay, the restaurant expanded both in size and menu. They were among the early darlings of our emerging restaurant scene in the mid ‘90s. La Pizzeria changed hands several years ago and has a large clientele at both lunch and dinner – and consistently serves fresh fish, meat and pastas. But talking recently with a friend she mentioned that she had a party and picked up a selection of pizzas from La Pizzeria. It sounded like a great idea.

For some insane reason, I began watching “American Idol” for the first time this season. I paid scant attention to it until the end of last year, but otherwise know nothing of it. A small group gets together on Tuesday nights to watch and I have attended a few gatherings. This appeared to be the perfect opportunity to try a multitude of pizzas – which we did.

It was then my boozy friend’s idea to lay all the pizzas out on the table and have an “Idol” like contest. Everyone would try all the pizzas, then vote on their top three. The top vote getter would be crowned “Pizza Idol.” We had plenty of sarcasm, but no one was looped on drugs, so we could not completely mimic the real judges.

There are 22 styles of pizza at La Pizzeria in addition to being able to create your own. They come in either 10 inch ($11.95) or 12 inch ($13.95). We sampled eight pizzas, which I sweet talked them to do half styles on each. So, 16 types are listed here. Get it?

I have to begin with their crust – for it may not be your style. I am a thin crust pizza man – no heavy dough for me. La Pizzeria’s crust is so crispy thin it is similar to a good hard cracker. The hot brick oven sears the moisture and slightly chars the bottom. If you are grossed out by a tiny amount of black soot on your hands – then stay with the conventional ovens at Pizza Hut. If you get soot on your hands, that is a sign of good pizza.

The crust is more brittle the fewer toppings are found on the pie. The heavier ingredients are on top, the softer the bottom. And, when you bring them home, you should pop them, in the box, in a warm oven until you serve. You can always eat any of the pizzas in the restaurant.

All of them have their own personality, and witty, descriptive names. Their box tops were ripped off and the spotlight hit them one at a time. I was told to immediately eat the Kevin – garlic base, mozzarella, cheddar jack, bacon, tomato and basil. It is reminiscent of bruschetta, and the freshness of the tomatoes along with a slight vinegary/garlic base commanded attention.

If it gets cold, it apparently is not as pungent in taste. One diner said she could “eat six pieces of Kevin, not degrees of.” Next up, despite having a tired, repetitive career, Stallone was full of roasted garlic, Italian sausage, mozzarella and tomato. Large mounds of fresh zesty sausage emerged from freshly melted cheese. This simple one was rated in the top three by half of the eaters.

Gump 1 ran up behind, with very small shrimp, which a few said was disappointing, on a pesto base along with goat cheese and sun dried tomato – but all were pleased with the taste. For vegetarians I recommend the Greek, loaded with large, chunky black olives, spinach and feta – piled up high.

This was partnered with the White, a chicken, spinach, artichoke, purple onion and feta with pesto undertones. The pesto is strong and long on flavor, with an earthy taste of basil. I could eat this whole pizza myself.

How Lasorda and RuPaul got together is beyond me, but this duet pizza was a bit transgendered. Lasorda, was “what you think of when you think of pizza,” said one judge, with marinara, beef, swiss, mozzarella, ricotta and Parmesan. RuPaul was most definitely costumed well, but this fairly typical combination – pineapple, ham and peppers, fell flat when up against the more creative competition.

The character of the evening and standout for best name was Marion Barry. Not quite coherent at first, this combination of pesto, feta, artichokes, spinach, sun dried tomato, black olives, cracked black pepper and mozzarella may not have been PC, but tasted awesome.

The appearance of the next was a bit childish at first, but the crowd was split on whether Winnie the Pooh, bacon, chicken, fire roasted peppers, cheddar, provolone all on a honey mustard base was the bomb or a bomb. But Winnie was quickly followed on stage by Elton – panned as coming on too strong to those who loved the sweet taste of the bear.

Elton was cheered on for his aromatically intense gorgonzola, sweet roasted peppers, and mozzarella in a garlic base. Several of us thought Jimi Hendrix was a best performance, full of portabello, shitake and domestic mushrooms. I also noticed people tend to make a run to, or away from the border. The Castro, shredded roasted chicken, grilled purple onion, mozzarella, cheddar jack, green chilies, black olives and jalapeno in a black bean sauce, stopped the others in some of our minds. They gave us a side of sour cream with jalapenos on top which merged into an unintentional hot sauce that kicked Castro past some of the other contenders.

Who won? We had too many finalists to come out with a clear choice of the best. Unlike the contestants on the real show, there were many standouts, no real disappointments and no pretenders. But suffice it to say La Pizzeria can help you be all things to all people.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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