Cuisine Review

There is a little white clapboard building hidden behind the Daphne Post Office that has attracted some attention. The Camellia Café has drawn me over twice for lunch and recently dinner.

It is a very relaxing and stimulating place. Outdoors on the deck are several tables with market umbrellas and inside is another world. An open ceiling draws your eye to the umber roofing, beams and all. Bruce Larsen’s found objects art is displayed in such a way that, depending on where you are sitting, you see a different perspective each time. At night, the lights inside are just dim enough to calm conversation, yet stimulate an intense or funny discourse. It is a small intimate place that was a former law enforcement station.

At lunch, the first time I had a vibrant green salad with a layer of salmon salad atop. The second time, on a Lenten Friday, my friend had pot roast that she was unbelievably made silent by, while I had a nice piece of fish in a light sauce with a hint of citrus and green beans. Several I have sent have dined at night and encouraged me to make the drive.

Lagniappe’s editors and one of their wives went along with me. I try to spread these out because one editor leaves his wits at home and always, always blows my cover. This time when the waitress asked if we had been before he stated, “Well, only Kinnon has.” Beyond this they are a vocal group and more educated and experienced in the art of criticism than the newbies that often tag along with me. It was very fun, we had a lively time and discussed all matter of things – both silly and heady.

The wine list is a bit expensive, but we came to the conclusion that all wines lists everywhere tend to be expensive. It is a nice selection that made the decision a difficult one to make. Plan on spending around $40 for the lowest bottle. For the menu, this changes quite often, if not daily. On this night there were five appetizers/salads and five entrees. Two desserts, a crème brulee of the day and cheesecake with macerated strawberries were offered, but we were too full at the end to eat anymore.

There is a Caesar ($6) that I split at my last lunch that was beyond the pale on that day, with large slivers of fresh Parmesan and a kicky dressing. No one ordered it, but the Calamari Bread Salad with oven-dried tomatoes, pickled red onions, fresh herbs, croutons and olive vinaigrette ($8 )could likely be eaten as a small entrée.

Immediately I and another table mate selected the cream of potato and leek soup ($5) – I thought would be cold, and was surprised when a hot bowl appeared. It was truly creamy, thick on the spoon but thoroughly combined, with no rough pieces – I enjoyed it but it would likely be even better cold. Although I tend to be partial to cold soup once spring arrives.

The seared local crab cake with baby green salad and fine herb vinaigrette ($9) was declared to be unbelievable and two cakes were shared between the couple. My decked-out friend and I split the green salad with shaved granny smith apples, toasted nuts, goat cheese and lemon Dijon vinaigrette ($7) was a hit with me – the accompaniments found in this salad are all my favorites. She thought it was good, but did not rave.

The entrees did cover the spectrum. The room was filled with the strong aroma of the braised Colorado lamb shank with mashed potatoes, haricots verts and whole grain mustard jus ($27). Another selection that was not made at our table was the sautéed scallops with roasted vegetables and brown butter vinaigrette ($25).

The ladies both ordered shrimp and grits with stone-ground grits, local shrimp, fresh herbs and lemon beurre blanc ($21) one of them was not impressed, while the other relished running the shrimp through the lemon beurre blanc. A heaping coarse mound of grits contained medium sized shrimp intermixed with some chopped vegetables.

I got the seared flatiron steak with mashed potatoes, white asparagus and sauce bordelaise ($23). The steak was tender to the fork, medium rare and enjoyable. No one really messes up mashed potatoes anymore, they have become ubiquitous, although many try. These were good, what you would expect. And while the sauce was rich, brown and flavorful, this along with the duck, were on the salty side.

Green asparagus arrived instead of white, and they were crisp, crunchy and fresh. The sautéed duck breast with roasted spring vegetables and brown butter vinaigrette ($25) has what I think (as in I cannot remember) rutabagas and potatoes and a nice portion of duck. Actually, all of the portions are plentiful. A strong smoky taste was imparted in the duck that I thought added to the meat. My friend’s experience was that the duck was not strong enough in taste and was similar to pork. All a matter of taste, as I do not like the strong wild taste often found in wild game.

In my opinion, the Camellia Café does have a future. For those that live in Daphne, this is a pleasant atmosphere to have a quiet intimate dinner that is respectful. The chef and staff are very attentive and amiable. I predict that in several months time, they will find their way and establish themselves. We had a nice time, and ate all of our food. Always a good sign, but I look to enjoy a heightened experience in several months’ time when I check on them again.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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