Cuisine Review

Much has been said already about the Renaissance at Old Shell Road and Florida. Several anchors – restaurants, art galleries and even an ice cream shop already existed. But the development of Ashland Station, and Naman’s Midtown Market has brought more residents to MiMo.

I have stood back and observed, listened and commented on the goings on at Naman’s. Alec planned and executed a quality atmosphere and building that adds character and cachet to the area. The seating area is wide open and creates the “hello darlin’” atmosphere of Spring Hill.

At first, I was concerned. It seemed to be bedlam. No one seemed to know who was responsible when questions were asked and there was lots of panic behind the counter in the restaurant area and some clueless people. I chalked it up to newness and working out the kinks.

Now that they are into the groove, or at least should be, I think it is time for feedback and a food critique. In the market side, it is well laid out and essentially has all the choices. While not necessarily a place I would recommend doing your everyday grocery shopping, the basics and the exotic are here. With few exceptions, the fresh fruit and vegetables are plentiful and not wilted out.

I have tried a few of the casseroles with only one real disappointment, the shrimp, rice and cheese. The shrimp were small in both size and number, the sauce on the runny side and was more soupy than like a casserole. The seafood gumbo is plentiful with the seafood and ranks among the top in Mobile. One friend even told me he doctored it up a bit so he could call it his own!

I have enjoyed the cranberry bagels and they have cookies that meet my standards along with a rich, delicious Italian Crème Cake. I have been told by several that the Crème Brulee Cheesecake is consistently wonderful with a light cheese cake base. Their hummus is not quite mine, but it is worthy of being called the best store-bought around. The only other deli item I have eaten is the gourmet chicken salad that is all white meat and low on the mayonnaise. People gobble it up and enjoy the nuts added as a nice textural dimension.

The Market has two types of prepared food for eat-in or take-out. The first is a daily selection of entrees and sides. They are displayed attractively inside a heated case. This is not my style, I only like freshly prepared food. Yet, it is quite popular with most people and there is nothing wrong with it.

There is always a large group of people waiting to select from such items as pecan crusted grouper, lemon ginger garlic pork tenderloin, grilled herb chicken breast and chicken tenders. I have seen just about every type of rice, potato and vegetable in the case as a side. I had beef kabobs with teriyaki glaze with some brown rice that was fairly good.

Naman’s does have a salad station where they will make any kind you want, with a Chinese chicken salad specialty. I like the sandwiches the most. There are hot and cold, wraps and regulars. The Southern Style BLT ($8) jumps from the board – apple smoked bacon, fried green tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, pesto mayo and fresh greens are jammed onto sourdough bread.

The addition of fried green tomatoes is always better when the tomatoes are fresh out of the fryer, but having had them lukewarm there is really nothing to complain about. This is a nice twist on an old school favorite. The time I ate the Salmon BLT ($7.75) I was in the mood for some fish. It has all the BLT basics with the pesto mayo and salmon. My time it was a tad dry.

What I liked about the Cuban ($7.75) is that it uses horseradish mustard rather than a super spicy one. For me, the addition of mustard that’s too spicy ruins the pork and pickles, so one with a kicky bite instead is much better. The pork is tenderly roasted, with sliced grilled ham, pickles, another kick added with jerk seasoning and Swiss on a hoagie. Definitely try this, just one of my many favorites.

The ultimate is the Grilled Portabella ($8) – at first bite, it oozes flavor. The mushroom is combined with creamy melted goat cheese, red pepper, lettuce, tomato and pesto mayonnaise on a grilled Kaiser. It would likely be even better in a wrap.

After hearing rave after rave about their Smoked Brisket (sandwich, $7.50), recently I picked the sandwich along with a Turkey Harvest Melt ($8) so I could add to the review. They were so pleasing I ate both! The brisket has a delightfully smoked taste, was moist and full of flavor. It is paired with Swiss cheese, grilled onion marmalade and beef au jus on a Kaiser roll. The au jus and onion bring a piquant delight to the creation.

The melt contains roasted turkey, melted Swiss, granny smith apples and balsamic vinegar on a baguette. I enjoyed it for the most part, the foil of tart and sweet along with the biting vinegar. While not ruined, it was disappointing that all the apple and juice created from the accompaniments were at the bottom of the baguette and not more evenly distributed. All sandwiches are served with sides – Zapp’s chips, fruit, pasta salad or potato salad. I like the creamy potato salad the best, so I always opt for it.

Other sandwiches include a turkey and traditional Reuben, an Italian combination, club, chicken salad and Mediterranean tuna (made with capers, red onion, Kalamata olives). The cold sandwiches can be made into wraps as well, and I would guess if you asked, since they have sliced Boar’s Head meats, they may let you create your own (or at least here is a suggestion from me).

Due to the steady traffic, Naman’s is being welcomed to the neighborhood – and being a good neighbor with good gourmet groceries and prepared foods in return.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.

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