By Kinnon Phillips
Cuisine Editor

Business has taken me to Montgomery several times in the last few weeks, and I have been pleasantly surprised with their restaurants. The ones I have been to are all sleek and contemporary, modern in look and atmosphere. Think NoJa essentially, or almost more ethereal.

It would be nice to have some others in this category and move a bit away from the bistro feel. This is no criticism of what we have, just a statement that we have room to grow new concepts. The most impressive is a place called La Jolla, in Eastchase, off I-85. It is located in their Summit/Eastern Shore Centre, which is quite nicer than the hybrid upscale/mid-scale combination found in Malbis. It is definitely more in the range of Birmingham’s Summit shopping center.

Soaring ceilings in a softened industrial styled space with unique table lighting set the mood. My business companion and I started with an excellent spinach salad, and I ordered escolar, a South American fish. The menu is unique and descriptive, with fish from Asia, Hawaii and South America. Escolar is a thick, white fish buttery in texture, very mellow. It was served atop a zippy quesadilla and sticky yellow rice. My friend had the seared tuna with a ginger wasabi sauce that was beautifully seared.

A week prior I was taken to the Olive Room, downtown. It is a very mod space, and the outside of the building does not have an evident door, you push on a wall to enter an almost-too-dark space. Done in shades of olive greens with romantic fixtures, the menu is not too far from most you find in nicer places these days, and met the mark. I understand it is the only restaurant downtown.

On my way out of town a client took us to eat at an engorging meat and three at a run-down motel just east of the Embassy Suites called the Capital Motel. It was fabulous, with a generous buffet with fried whole catfish, BBQ, limas and black-eyes mixed together in a spicy broth, cabbage, mac and cheese and, of course, banana pudding. So good that my co-worker had to drive home so I would not fall off the road. These are all places to make sure and try if and when you are in the area.

Ch-ch-changes

There are more announcements for MiMo and LoDa in the restaurant arena. Across from the Korbet’s Square strip on Airport at the Loop, the same group that runs the USA/Spring Hill Mellow Mushroom is building another development on the north side of the street next to Regions Bank. No more hauls out to WeMo to get your Mellow Mushroom fix – which is something I do frequently. Their whole wheat, honey like crust is hard to beat, and I enjoy the pizza with pesto, spinach and portabella mushrooms with jalapenos.

Thank goodness that the Tijuana Flats space on Catherine Street will not be empty for long. WOW Wingery and Café will be open in two months – hopefully with great wings – and will be strongly supported. The company is out of Biloxi.

And downtown, work continues on the old Quatorze building on Conception Street, with an establishment called Bacchus, a “small plates” bar that should open by the end of summer or early fall. The old Loretta’s building will not be gathering dust for long (well, I guess dust had slowing been gathering in there for quite a few years) when Noell Broughton opens his sports bar concept there in early summer. The menu is still in the works and it will be interesting to see the transformation from mid century mod to sports bar take place.

Give ‘em time

There’s already been some complaining about the Trellis Room at the Battle House Hotel regarding price at night. Hey folks, give them time, it takes a lot to open up and get in the groove. And time will also show if the food is worth the price.

I for one stayed at the Battle House the first Saturday it was open and my expectations were exceeded. Forget and get over the rug in the lobby – the place is stunning (and if you want to see a hideous rug, go check out the disaster of a black light poster carpet they just put in the Convention Center).

The service was attentive and cordial throughout the hotel, my room was well decorated, comfortable and had nice touches, along with one of the largest and nicest hotel bathrooms I have ever encountered.

I am really excited to have a refined place to eat breakfast, especially for business. At my business meeting on Sunday, the buffet had perfectly fresh fruit, some of the best cheese blintzes I have ever tasted, pastries made in house and crispy, peppered bacon (that I think I may have eaten a dozen pieces of).

Emeril to Island View

Emeril Lagasse’s ever-expanding culinary empire continues to grow – and this time it’s closer to us. Emeril announced last week he will be opening Emeril’s Gulf Coast Fish House in the new Island View Casino in Gulfport around June 20.

The Island View is located on the site of the former Grand Casinon Gulfport. It’s nice to see the celebrity chef moving ever closer to the Mobile market. Now a drive to NOLA is no longer a necessity to try Emeril’s cooking.

Garden pasta

If you are headed off to the beach this weekend, harvest your basil before you go and make this tempting pasta dish that I came across in the Barefoot Contessa’s new cookbook

Summer Garden Pasta (Serves Six)

Four pints cherry tomatoes, halved

Good olive oil

Two tablespoons minced garlic (six cloves)

Eighteen large basil leaves, julienned, plus extra for serving

One half teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Kosher salt

One half teaspoon fresh ground pepper

One pound dried angel hair pasta

One and a half cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Combine tomatoes, one half cup olive oil, basil, red pepper flakes, salt and pepper in large bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set aside on counter for four hours. When ready to serve, cook pasta (only takes about two to three minutes). Drain well and add pasta to the tomatoes. Add extra basil and cheese, toss and serve with extra cheese.

Kinnon Phillips is Lagniappe cuisine editor. Contact him at kphillips@lagniappemobile.com.



Archives

Word of Mouth

Sep 23 2008 BayFest eats abound Peter Teske Lagniappe Staff BayFest Eats and Drinks If you find yourself famished or thirsty during BayFest you’ll have a few options this year.

Sep 10 2008 Recipes to get you through the storm There is something about a storm, whether in the North or South, that causes most people run to the grocery store and cook.

Aug 26 2008 Openings abound all around There are quite a few upcoming and current restaurant openings in the area.

Aug 12 2008 The ‘Fish fades away By now I am sure most of you have heard that Picklefish downtown on Dauphin Street has closed after 12 years of good pizza.

Jul 29 2008 John Word’s gets jazzy John Word’s restaurant on the causeway near the Battleship Alabama has undergone an extreme makeover.

Jul 15 2008 Now for the Kin-Nappies As I sat down to fill out my ballot, I realized what an incredible year we have had in the restaurant scene in Mobile.

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September 23, 2008
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